Monday, December 17, 2007

Caring for Poinsettias and Making Them Re bloom


Here is another great article by my good friend Mike I would like to share.

Caring for Poinsettias and Making Them Re bloom


Poinsettias, a bright and cheerful symbol of the holiday
season, are often thought of as "throwaway" plants to be
set on the curb when their red blooms fade. Rather than
buying a new plant each December, with proper care you can
keep your poinsettias blooming for another holiday season.

Poinsettia plants enjoy indirect sunlight for at least six
hours each day while they are blooming. They prefer to be
slightly on the dry side and will not be happy if they are
overwatered. While the plant is flowering it should not be
fertilized, but after the plant has finished blooming an all-
purpose fertilizer may be applied..

To enjoy your poinsettia blooms for another holiday season,
it should be cut back to about 8 inches in late March or early
April. It can be fertilized about once a month, and by late
May new growth will begin to appear.

Once there is no more danger of frost and nighttime temperatures
stay above 55 degrees F, your poinsettia may be kept outdoors
for the summer. Fertilizing can be done every 2-3 weeks during
the summer, and the plant can be pruned to keep it full and
compact. In warm climates a poinsettia may be planted directly
in the garden but in cooler climates it is best to transplant
your poinsettia into a pot that is just slightly larger than
its original pot. This can be done in early June. Be sure to
use a well-draining potting soil.

As temperatures begin to cool in late summer, the plant should
again be brought indoors. Longer nights will cause poinsettias
to set buds and produce flowers during November or December.
To encourage your poinsettia to bloom for the Christmas holiday,
you must carefully control the amount of light the plant receives.

To bloom for Christmas, the plant must be kept in total darkness
for 14 hours each night during October, November and early
December, along with 6-8 hours of bright sunlight. This can be
accomplished by moving the poinsettia to a dark closet each
night, making sure that no light sneaks beneath the door. Or
simply cover the plant with a large box each night. No peeking!
Any stray light will upset the schedule.

During October, November and early December the plant needs 6-8
hours of bright sunlight along with 14 hours of total darkness.
The ideal temperature for your poinsettia is between 60 and 70
degrees. Warmer or cooler temperatures can also delay flowering.
Continue fertilizing monthly until the blossoms appear.

Follow this schedule of daylight and darkness for 8-10 weeks and
your poinsettia will reward you with a colorful holiday display!


(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/




McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Composting Methods


Here at Granny's garden we are big on the use of composting for beneficial use's in our garden.
There are many benefits to using compost in the garden that range from Biological Benefits to
Chemical Benefits.

There is a wonderful article on the different ways of composting methods over at the University of Illinois Extension titled Composting for the Homeowner it explains the different methods of composting.This is a great 
read for anyone interested in the subject of composting.I recommend you give it a look.
Composting Methods

Monday, December 10, 2007

Growing and Caring for Amaryllis Indoors



Growing and Caring for Amaryllis Indoors
Here is anothet great article by my good friend Mike I thought you might enjoy.

Amaryllis bulbs are often given as gifts for the holidays,
later producing spectacular flowers to brighten the
recipient's home or office. Amaryllis bulbs can be found
in many stores in December, or in mail-order catalogs.
The bulbs are sold separately or already planted in pots.

If you're purchasing unpotted bulbs, choose those that are
large and feel solid. The largest bulbs will produce two
or more flower stalks and larger blooms. Select a pot for
the bulb that is an inch or two wider than the diameter of
the bulb, and plant the bulb in well-draining potting soil
that does not include pine bark. A mix of equal amounts of
perlite and peat can also be used for potting amaryllis bulbs.
The upper half to third of the bulb should remain above the
soil surface.

Once planted, water the pot well and place it in a location
where the temperature is 70-75 degrees. Some sources say
that the bulb should not be watered again until the bulb
sprouts. Once it sprouts, the soil should be kept moist but
not soggy.

After the bulb sprouts, move the plant to a sunny window and
give it a half-strength dose of fertilizer once or twice monthly.
Turn the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing straight.
The stalk may need to be staked if it tends to lean.

Once the flowers appear, move the plant to an area with cooler
temperatures and indirect light. Cooler temperatures will prolong
the life of the blossoms.

When the flowers fade, cut off the flower stalks about an inch
above the bulb. Remove any dead foliage but leave the green
foliage on the plant so they can help the plant store energy.

Amaryllis bulbs will produce flowers year after year if treated
correctly. After the plant has finished blooming, move it back
to a sunny window and give it water when the soil surface is dry.
Continue fertilizing once or twice monthly until outdoor
temperatures stay well above freezing, generally in May.
Gradually expose the plant to outdoor temperatures and sunlight
for several days, then plant pot and all in a spot where it will
receive partial to full sun.

Bring the plant back indoors in mid-September and place it in a
cool, somewhat dark location such as an unheated garage or
basement to induce dormancy, and stop watering the plant.
Remove the leaves as they become brown, and keep the bulb at
a temperature of 50-55 degrees for 8-10 weeks. After this time the
plant can be moved back to its sunny window and watered well.
New growth will soon appear, followed by another round of lovely
blossoms.

(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Linky Love Train


Get aboard the Linky Love train. Chris from the The Dog Log blog invited me to join her on a new linky love train. I've never been on board one before, so I'm definitely game for it. Plus this is such an easy tag, how can I not join in the fun?

The rules: when you get tagged, you have to add your name below the person who tagged you and by doing so you are letting the list grow.

Limadang.com
RamblingMoo.com
blogginginmypyjamas
StylewithPassion
Chinneeq
dorazooropazoo
Babyshern
HiPnCooLMoMMa
Rachel’s Soulful Thoughts
When Silence Speaks
Dancing in Midlife Tune
Underneath it All
I am Dzoi
Hobbies and Such
moms…..check nyo
Choc Mint Girl
Amel’s Realm
My Thoughts
Rusin Roundup
Juliana’s Site
Max
Rooms of My Heart
Mariuca
Colin aka cotojo
A Great Pleasure
MondayMorningPower
The dog log
Granny Gruners Garden

I would like to tag my good friend Waliz from the Waliz Diary

Monday, December 3, 2007

Caring for a Live (Balled) Christmas Tree

Here is a great article on Caring for a Live (Balled) Christmas Tree by my good friend Mike.

Live Christmas trees (balled in burlap) are great
because you can enjoy them for Christmas, then enjoy
them in your yard for 20 or 30 years or more. But you
must know how to care for them and how to plant them
in your yard.

1. Keep your live tree in the house for as short a period
of time as possible. Try to keep it in inside for no more
than three weeks.

2. Keep the root ball watered well, they dry out quickly.
But don't water it so much that it's soggy or submerged in
water.

3. Dig a hole in your yard the size of the root ball BEFORE
you move the tree inside. That way as soon as Christmas
is over you can get the tree planted even if the ground is
frozen Do not dig the hole too deep. Once in the hole the
top of the ball should be at least 1" above ground. Then
mound soil over the root ball so the burlap is not exposed.

4. Keep enough loose soil in your garage in a wheelbarrow
to cover the root ball after planting. The ground might be
frozen after Christmas.

5. Don't store your tree in the garage after Christmas. It will
be much happier in the ground, even if it's really cold outside.

6. Do not fertilize your tree. Come spring you can fertilize
with an organic fertilizer. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer.

7. Enjoy your live Christmas tree for many years to come.

(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/




McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Window Sill Herb Garden


Ever thought of planting a window sill herb garden to get you over those winter blues?
It would be nice to have some fresh herbs growing in the kitchen window sill this winter
to help take away those winter blues plus you could get some health benefits at the same time.

Most herbs will get by on at least 6 hours of sunlight a day.So if you have a sunny window sill then
you are in business.Basil, chives, sweet marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme are especially well suited to growing in windowsill gardens.

So get out your potting mix, container,and get started today.

Saturday, November 24, 2007

Mulch Fall-Planted Bulbs


Remember those fall planted spring flowering bulbs you recently planted?
They will need a little protection this winter for spring beauty.

To protect fall planted, spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips for winter mulch them after a few hard freezes with a 2 to 3 inch thick layer of shredded bark.

This should help you to have a beautiful spring garden.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving

Myspace Graphics
Myspace Graphics at WishAFriend.com

All of us here at Granny Gruners Garden would like to wish you a wonderful,and safe Thanksgiving.

Monday, November 5, 2007

Winter is Coming/Something to Think About

Make sure all of your garden hoses are disconnected
from the faucets. Today most homes are equipped with
"frost free" hose bibs that are not supposed to freeze.
But what most people don't realize is that unless you
disconnect the hose from the faucet the water inside of
the faucet can not drain and they can and will freeze and
break inside the wall. Simply disconnect the hose so the
water inside the faucet can run out.

If you live in the south you need not worry. In the north pipes do freeze
and bust wide open if we don't take precautions. It just
adds to ambience of living in the north.

Sunday, November 4, 2007

November Garden To Do List

November Gardening To Do List




Zone 1
Thin dense-growing trees to avoid wind damage
Apply mulch around plants after ground freezes
Cut back chrysanthemums after bloom; mulch heavily or dig and store in basement or garage
Set up burlap screens on windward sides of choice shrubs
Prune deciduous trees and roses after leaves have fallen

Zone 2
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)


Zone 3
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)


Zone 4
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter

Zone 5
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter

Zone 6
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 7
Plant ornamental trees
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Rake lawn to remove debris
Protect roses for the winter
Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs during or just after bloom
Prune hardy deciduous and evergreen shrubs and vines
Protect tender plants from frost
Zone 8
Lightly cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune fall- and winter-blooming shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant cool-season or winter vegetable seedlings
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 9
Plant for winter color with annuals
Plant winter- and spring-flowering shrubs
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Plant bare-root fruit trees
Plant citrus
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Repair or plant lawns
Rake lawns to remove debris
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune deciduous trees
Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables
Protect tender plants from frost


Zone 10
Set out winter-blooming annuals
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Plant bare-root fruit trees
Plant citrus
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root shrubs and vines
Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant bare-root trees
Sow cool-season or winter vegetable seeds


Zone 11
Purchase living Christmas tree (but don't bring it indoors until a week -or less- before Christmas)
Plan next year's garden
Clean and oil garden tools
Drain and winterize garden mechanical equipment according to manufacturer's instructions
When you bring in the living Christmas tree, keep it away from heating registers
Keep gift plants in a cool, light place. Slit foil at bottom of pot to keep roots from drowning.

article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonenov01.html





 

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Fall Lawn Care

Fall Lawn Care



By Willi Evans Galloway

Even if you have only a small plot of sod, you still want it to look its best and be free of problems. The cool-season grasses (bluegrasses, perennial ryegrass, and fescues) grown in the northern half of the United States need more care now than warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine). Whichever type of grass you have, there are some steps you should take this fall to ensure a healthy, green lawn next spring.

Get a soil test. Assessing your soil health now gives you time to correct nutrient deficiencies and pH problems before spring.

Shred the leaves. Fallen leaves can smother a lawn if left in place all winter. Use a mulching mower to shred leaves into vital organic matter that you can leave right on your lawn.

Throw off thatch. Compacted soil and too much thatch—an accumulation of undecayed and decaying plant matter at the soil surface—denies grass roots the air, water, and nutrients they need to thrive. (Thatching, by the way, is caused by excess fertilizing, not by mulching grass clippings.) Increasing organic matter will stimulate the soil microbes that consume thatch. If the problem is so bad that water cannot penetrate the thatch, remove the thatch now with a stiff rake or thatching rake.

Mow high. Continue to mow grass until it stops actively growing. For the final mowing of the season, cut cool-season grasses to 2½ inches and warm-season grasses between 1½ and 2 inches, which is just a little shorter than you should cut it during the spring and early autumn.

No fast food. Fertilize cool-season grasses in fall with a slow-release, organic fertilizer, such asFall Lawns Alive!® Application timing varies among regions, so check with your county extension office for local recommendations. Don't fertilize warm-season grasses in fall.

Reseed bare areas. Prevent weedy patches next spring by seeding now. Grass seed grows well in fall because the temperatures are perfect for cool-season grass and because it has less competition from annual weeds. Just be sure to give the lawn enough time to establish itself before winter weather hits. Plant and renovate warm-season grasses in the spring.

Article from Organic Gardening .com

Monday, October 15, 2007

Putting Your Garden to Bed for Winter

Putting Your Garden to Bed for Winter

With fall here and winter being not far behind, it will soon
be time to put your garden to bed for the winter.

Houseplants that have been luxuriating outdoors for the
summer need to be brought indoors when nighttime
temperatures drop below fifty degrees. Many houseplants
come from tropical regions and they won't appreciate cooler
temperatures. Before bringing them indoors, carefully
examine the leaves and the pots for any insects that may try
to hitch a ride inside your house. A couple of good douses of
insecticidal soap applied a few days before the plants are
brought inside will eliminate many pests before they can
infest your home.

Fall is a good time to plant perennials. Fall-planted
perennials should be thinly mulched after planting. More
mulch should be added after the ground has frozen to prevent
the newly established plants from heaving out of the ground
from repeated freezing and thawing. Mark where all of your
perennials are planted so you'll know where they are once the
foliage has died back at the end of the season.

Tender bulbs and tubers such as gladiola and begonias
should be dug up after the first light frost and stored over winter
in a cool, dark place that won't freeze.

Stop fertilizing your trees and flowering shrubs as fall
approaches. This will allow the new growth to harden off
before winter and will help prevent winter damage to your
plants.

Clean out all weeds, plant debris and unharvested vegetables
from the vegetable garden. Compost can be added to the
vegetable garden now, and you might consider planting a cover
crop of winter rye, oats or clover. Cover crops help keep
weeds down and prevent erosion in the garden. Come spring,
the cover crop is tilled in to enrich the soil.

Putting the garden to bed can be a sad event for gardeners,
but it also reminds us that another glorious season of
gardening will be here soon.


(personal stuff about Mike and Pam, more added all the time)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/






McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Mulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring Display

Mulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring Display

Flower bulbs need a good, long, winters sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested, they get kind of cranky, and then they don’t bloom well at all.

Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm, and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And that’s usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then don’t bloom at all, or if they do it’s a very sad display.

Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.

In the fall just apply a 3-4” layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good, as long as the soil isn’t too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer.

A 3-4” layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you don’t want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time.

When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again.

We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and it’s time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Anytime you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are “well composted”. Fresh material is not good.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most
interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his
excellent gardening newsletter, and grab a FREE copy of his
E-book, "Easy Plant Propagation".

Saturday, October 6, 2007

Fall Rose Care

Fall Rose Care
Remember that roses require special care in the fall. In early fall, suspend fertilization. Continuing to fertilize causes new growth that could be killed by winter's cold. After foliage drops, spray with fungicide, then cover plants with a minimum of 8" of loose, well-drained soil, mulch or compost. Prune canes back to 36" to prevent damage from winter winds.

Sunday, September 30, 2007

October Gardening To Do List

October Gardening To Do List




Zone 1
Finish planting container-grown trees and shrubs
Plant needle-bearing evergreens early in the month
If the month is dry, repeat the September soaking
Check ties on trees, and loosen any that look tight
Finish bulb planting early in the month
Cover compost to keep it warm and working
Observe trees for fall color; jot names of the best in your notebook
Dig dahlia roots after tops are frosted


Zone 2
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 3
Start fall compost pile
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 4
Start fall compost pile
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Protect roses for winter
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant balled-and-burlapped trees
Plant trees in containers
Plant frost-tolerant trees

Zone 5
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Protect roses for winter
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees

Zone 6
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees
Plant permanent ground covers
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Protect roses for winter
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens


Zone 7
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Rake lawn to remove debris
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune fall-flowering shrubs just after bloom
Protect tender plants from frost
Zone 8
Plant for fall and winter color
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 9
Plant for fall color with annuals
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are growing or blooming
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Rake lawns to remove debris
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant or transplant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 10
Plant annuals for fall color
Set out fall and winter-blooming plants
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Sow cool-season vegetable seeds
Start seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 11
Finish planting spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container-grown trees and shrubs
Feed and water lawn to encourage overseeded grass
Prune back summer- and fall-blooming shrubs
Allow rose hips to form; it will encourage early dormancy in bushes

article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneoct01.html

Saturday, September 22, 2007

WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS

WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS

This article is from the Beginners Handbook.
Purchase the complete handbook online.

When selecting a good location to grow chrysanthemums, a number of things should be considered.

SUNSHINE

The chrysanthemum does best in full sun. All of us do not always have a location where full sunshine can be provided. In most places, five to six hours will be sufficient to produce a healthy plant. When a choice exists between early morning sun and afternoon sun, select the morning sun. There, early drying will help to avoid mildew and other diseases. This effect is usually helpful to most plants.

DRAINAGE

Another condition to be considered in site selection is water drainage. Since chrysanthemums require good drainage, a low, level site in which rain collects should be avoided. When higher ground fails to drain well, all is not hopeless. The solution is to construct raised beds. Pressure treated wood, nominal 2 inch by eight inch is most satisfactory and readily available. After the bed is so outlined it should then be filled with suitable soil.

NIGHT LIGHTS

There are still other conditions which influence the selection of a location for chrysanthemum planting. One undesirable influence is the presence of a street or other light source at night. As will be explained later in more detail, light at night serves to delay the bloom date.

ROOT COMPETITION

When possible, beds should be located at a sufficient distance from larger plants to avoid extensive root competition. When root competition cannot be avoided, a barrier may be considered. Barriers may be open ditches or underground walls of metal, masonry, or lumber. Walls or barriers eight to twelve inches deep will usually prove to be sufficient.

AIR DRAINAGE

Finally, consideration should be given to a factor of which few people are aware. This factor is air drainage. Air flows in the same manner as water. Heavier cold air flows downhill while lighter warm air rises. Plants should be located away from walls or obstructions which would hinder air flow. Air movement helps to dry moist foliage and thus reduces development of mildew. Air flow also provides a cooling effect

NO YARD AT ALL

With limited yard or no yard at all, chrysanthemums can be grown successfully in containers. With containers, the soil can be formulated for good drainage and the containers can be moved to provide maximum sunlight and protection from the elements.

article reprinted from theNational Chrysanthemums Society

Sunday, May 20, 2007

Made in the Shade

Made in the Shade

Looking for vegetables that will grow in the shade? Cabbage, celery, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and radishes will grow with as little as four hours of sunlight daily. Expect plants to be lankier because they have to reach for the sun. But they will taste just as good as ones grown in full sun.

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

May Gardening To Do List

May Gardening To Do List




Zone 1

Prune flowering fruit trees while in bloom; use cuttings indoors
Complete bare-root planting
Amend soil with humus (manure, ground bark, peat moss, leaf mold)
Set out summer bedding plants when they become available
Set out tomatoes, eggplants when soil warms and danger of frost is over
Mow lawns if grass and soil are dry enough
Set out plants of cold crops (broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts)
Plant peas, Swiss chard, beets, carrots, turnips
Feed spring-flowering shrubs after bloom
Apply shading to greenhouse
Zone 2

Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals outdoors
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Plant permanent ground covers and cool-season lawns
Feed cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Prune roses (when temperatures are above freezing)
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant bare-root, balled-and-burlapped, and container trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens

Zone 3

Set out cool-season annuals
Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Plant cool-season lawns and permanent ground covers
Feed and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant bare-root and container roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines before buds swell
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens

Zone 4

Set out cool-season annuals
Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Set out herbs
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs and vines
Apply dormant spray to shrubs and vines
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens

Zone 5
Set out cool-season annuals
Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to shrubs and vines
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant balled-and-burlapped trees
Plant trees in containers
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens


Zone 6

Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens


Zone 7
Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant annuals for summer and fall color
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container fruit trees
Spray dormant fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant heat-loving perennials
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Plant or transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings

Zone 8
Set out annuals
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant or repair warm-season lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant fall-blooming perennials
Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables

Zone 9
Plant for summer color
Plant fall-flowering bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are blooming or actively growing
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings

Zone 10
Plant annuals for summer color
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant fall-blooming and hardy perennials
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings


Zone 11

Install or repair drip irrigation systems
Plant beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons
Bring out house plants to a shaded, wind-sheltered patio
Prune spring-blooming shrubs and vines after bloom
Feed and shape rose bushes
Make succession plantings of gladiolus
Deadhead annuals and perennials for prolonged bloom

article source backyard gardener.com

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

How to identify and control insect and disease pests on your landscape plants

How to identify and control insect and disease pests on your landscape plants.

There are a variety of different insects and diseases that can infest your landscape plants and cause a considerable amount of damage. Many of the insects are so small they are are extremely difficult to see with the naked eye, unless you know what you are looking for. I’m going to give you a few helpful hints.

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Cantaloupe

Cantaloupe

Q. Why do my cantaloupes bloom and bloom but seldom set any fruit?


A. Cantaloupes, like other vining crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and watermelons, require pollination for fruit set. This means pollen must be transferred from the male blooms to the female blooms. Although cantaloupes are different than other vining crops because they have flowers which contain male and female parts as well as those which contain only male parts, pollination by bees is still necessary. High temperatures or high fertility can cause the cantaloupe to produce only male blooms which results in poor fruit set. Nematodes can also cause small plants, profusion of blooms and no fruit. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the last killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shredded and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.


Q. Are bees necessary for pollination and fruit set in home- grown cantaloupes?


A. Although cantaloupes produce some perfect flowers (those that contain male and female parts) which can set fruit without pollen from a male flower, an adequate supply of bees during bloom will insure an abundant cantaloupe harvest. Most problems with fruit set in cantaloupes are caused by a lack of pollinating insects during the blooming period.



Q. Can cantaloupes cross-pollinate with other crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, squash or pumpkins?


A. Crossing between members of the curcurbit family is rare. If crossing occurs, it will not show up in this year's fruit but will be evident if seed is saved from these fruits to plant in next year's garden. Many people rate off-flavored or strange- colored fruit with cross-pollination, but it is usually caused by environmental conditions or disease.



Q. What is the best way to determine when a cantaloupe is ready for harvest?


A. The cantaloupe is ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest cantaloupes before they naturally separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity of cantaloupes is to place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If the stem separates easily, the cantaloupe is ripe.



Q. Some years my cantaloupe are sweet and tasty and other years they have no flavor at all. What is wrong?


A. Cantaloupe flavor depends upon environmental conditions. High rainfall or excessive irrigation as the cantaloupes near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Also, diseases which reduce the vigor of the plant and the leaves' ability to produce sugar will affect fruit flavor. Maintaining the plants in a healthy growing condition and avoiding excessive watering near maturity will improve cantaloupe flavor. Lack of flavor is not caused by cantaloupes crossing with other vine crops, such as cucumbers. Variety of cantaloupe grown affects flavor.



Q. Can you save seed from this year's crop of cantaloupes for planting in next year's garden?


A. Yes, but this is not recommended. Do not save seed from any vine crops because some cross-pollinating can become evident when the seed are planted in next year's garden. If you grow only one variety of cantaloupes and there are no cantaloupes in neighborhood gardens, seed can be saved for next year without producing off-type fruit. If hybrid varieties are used, you should not save seeds for next year's planting.



Q. What is the difference between a honeydew and cantaloupe?


A. Honeydew melons are closely related to cantaloupes but ripen later. Most honeydew melons have white or green flesh and mature within 100 to 120 days after planting. Honeydew melons do not slip from the vine as cantaloupes do and are mature when they become creamy to golden yellow in color and the blossom-end softens slightly.



Q. The foliage on my cantaloupe is developing yellow spots with a downy growth underneath.


A. This is downy mildew and can be controlled with resistant varieties (Top Score, TAM Uvalde, Perlita and PMR 45) and fungicide applications using chlorothalonil.



Q. The foliage of my cantaloupes is covered by brown, dead spots which fall out giving the foliage a very tattered appearance.


A. This disease can be controlled with fungicide applications at 10- to 14-day intervals. Use chlorothalonil.



Q. The stems near the crown of my cantaloupes are splitting, and an amber-colored ooze is forming around these cuts. Soon after this happens, the plants wilt and die.


A. This is gummy stem blight. It is a soil-borne fungal disease that infects and kills young plants. It can be controlled with benomyl sprays applied at the crown of the plants when they are just beginning to form runners. Rotation within the garden will also help prevent this problem.



Q. After the recent rains, my cantaloupes began to rot. Around the base of the decay there was a white fungal mat.


A. This is southern blight. The control for this is mulching between the fruit and the soil. Heavy soils will be more prone to this problem than light, sandy soils. Chemicals do not prevent this. Waterings should be light and quick so the soil does not stay wet for long.



Q. The roots of my cantaloupe plants are covered with knots and small swellings.


A. These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.



Q. My cantaloupe leaves look wilted and have a sticky substance all over them. What causes this?


A. A wilted appearance and sticky honeydew on melons are characteristics of heavy aphid infestations. Control aphids on cantaloupes with dimethoate, malathion or Thiodan. Use as directed on the label.



Q. My cantaloupe leaves have little trails or tunnels all over them. Will this harm my plants?

A. These trails are caused by leaf miners. Plants can tolerate very large populations without yield loss.

Q. My cantaloupe leaves have a web all over them and some of the leaves are turning yellow and dying.


A. The plants are probably infested with spider mites. Check the underside of the leaves for small red mites. Remove and destroy heavily infested plants. Treat light infestations with diazinon or Kelthane. Use as directed on the label. Never use sulfur as an organic control on vine crops.


http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/web.html

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Get kids interested in gardening

Get kids interested in gardening

The National Gardening Association has created a great website for parents and especially teachers to help get kids interested in learning about gardening -http://kidsgardening.org. You can find all sorts of projects for kids to do which will help them learn about all aspects of gardening, from composting to collecting seeds.

Friday, April 13, 2007

Vegetable Gardening Basics

Vegetable Gardening Basics
Creating Your Own Vegetable Garden


There are few things that are as satisfying to a home gardener, than to wander out to the vegetable garden, harvest and consume the fruits of their labor. Successful vegetable gardening involves far more than just popping a few seeds into the ground and waiting for a tomato to appear. Planting is only the third step of the three 'P's. Planning your garden, Preparing the soil, and then... Planting your vegetables!

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Tuesday, April 10, 2007

A Funny Post From GardeningTips,and Ideas Blog

Gardeningtipsnideas.com has a funny post titled Hilliary Clinton Garden Tips you can read it here.
http://www.gardeningtipsnideas.com/

Saturday, April 7, 2007

Growing Onions

GROWING ONIONS

Beth Jarvis













Onions, as members of the allium family, are cousins of garlic, chives, leeks and shallots. They're mostly biennials, growing vegetatively the first year then blooming the second.

There are a few perennial onions. You'll find them in catalogs under potato/multiplier onions or Egyptian walking onions. The potato/multiplier onion increase by producing new bulbs in a clump. The walking onions send up a flower stalk that sets numerous marble-sized bulbs at the top. When the weight of the bulb cluster becomes too great, the flower stalk collapses and the little bulbs take root where they land, hence they "walk". These onions are perhaps best used for green onions.

Starting onions:
Onions can be started three way: sets, direct seeding and transplanting. Though planting onion sets is the most popular way to grow them, you'll have better results transplanting seedlings you start indoors ahead of time.

Sets:
Sets are onions that were planted from seed last year. Sets for white, yellow and sometimes red onions are available from mail order catalogs and even some grocery stores. You can raise your own sets but you'll need to direct seed them in the garden by July so they can grow big enough to harvest and store in fall.

Buy onion sets that are firm and marble size but have not sprouted. Big sets may split into two bulbs or produce a flower stalk very early. (When an onion sends up a flower stalk, pull the onion and use it; it will not continue to grow larger nor will it store well.) Sort sets into those large than a dime and those smaller. Plant the larger sets for green onions and plant the smaller ones with adequate spacing: they'll produce bigger onions.

Because sets tolerate light frost, you can plant them outside when temperatures reach 48 degrees, around the middle of April in the Twin Cities. Plant onion sets, pointy end up, 1½ to 2" below soil. If you're planting big sets for green onions, space them close, almost touching. If you're planting them for full size onions, space them 3 to 4" apart. Firm the soil around the bulbs. Choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Sun all day is even better.

If you want to raise a winter's worth of onions, you'll need to plant onions from seedlings in addition to onions from sets, as onions from sets don't store as long as the others.

Transplants:
Raising your own seedlings for transplants gives you a jump on spring in late winter, more choices of varieties to raise, plus it's less expensive than purchasing transplants. Transplants are available through mail order and some garden centers. Regardless of the source, transplants will give you bigger onions by fall. Onions need to be planted indoors 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting outside, so plant the seeds in February to transplant onion seedlings outside in May. Buy only as much seed as you will use this year. Onion seeds don't remain viable for much over a year.

The most important thing to remember when buying onion seed is day length, especially if you're ordering from a national mail order firm. In Minnesota, we need to buy "long day" onion seeds because our summer days can be 16 hours long.

In the south, day length varies less and averages about 12 hours of light per day. Onions for southern gardeners are "short day" onions. You can raise short day onions in Minnesota but they will bulb as soon as day length reaches 12 hours and you'll get small onions.

Long day varieties start to bulb when day lengths are about 14-16 hours. If you start onion seeds indoors, keep lights on only 12 hours each day to give the plants a suitable night. Onion seedlings will form bulbs too early if exposed to long days at any time during their development. You will not get anything bigger than sets.

Plant onion seeds ¼-½" deep in a sterile seed-starting media. They can be planted 3 to a cell in recycled four or six packs or sow thickly in rows if you plant in a deep (4" to 6") flat or other container. Keep tops trimmed 3-4" tall. Water regularly to maintain adequate soil moisture.

Onion seedlings need to be hardened off before transplanting outside, after danger of frost has passed. Expose young plants to outdoor conditions gradually, over a two week period.

Plant seedlings 4" apart and just deeply enough to catch in the soil. When mature, they'll appear to sit on top of the soil.

Once outdoors, keep onions well watered, about an inch a week. Watering is critical when the bulbs start to swell. Water stress produces stronger flavored bulbs. Add fertilizer, based on a soil test, at planting, then again when leaves are 6" tall and lastly when bulbs are starting to swell.

Direct seeding:
If you want to plant onion seeds directly in the garden, you'll probably be most successful with green onions (also called scallions). Our short season makes success less likely when direct-seeding bulb-type onions.

Plant onion seeds in a sunny location where soil drains well. Cover the seeds with ½" of soil and water them regularly. Harvest when the white portion is pencil thick.

Harvest:
Onions are edible at any stage. Immature bulb-forming onions can be thinned from the garden and eaten.

Onions are ripe when ¼ to ½ of the tops have fallen over and bulbs have developed a papery skin. (For storage onions, 50% or more to the tops should have fallen over.) Gently push down the other plants, taking care to not break the stalks. Leave the onions in the ground for several days then pull them and let them cure in a warm, airy place out of the elements for a week or two.

When properly dried for storage, onions will have a dry, shrunken neck and dry outer skin. When storage onions are dry, braid their tops together or hang them in mesh bags or old nylons, and store them in a cool, dry site.

Mature, cured onions are physiologically dormant. The length of dormancy depends on what cultivar you've planted. Cool storage will prolong dormancy. The recommended storage temperature is 32 degrees. Do not let them freeze. Onions will start to sprout at temperatures over 40 degrees.

There is absolutely no truth to the story that potatoes and onions should not be stored together because one makes the other sprout. The truth is, they have different storage temperature requirements. The optimal storage temperature for potatoes is 40 degrees, the temperature at which onions sprout.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h247onion.html

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

April Gardening To Do List

April Gardening To Do List





Zone 1

Finish planting bare-root trees, shrubs, roses
Prune roses, then apply dormant spray
Apply dormant spray to trees and shrubs before they leaf out
Spade or till garden beds as soon as the soil is workable
Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Feed evergreens, fruit tres, ahrubs, and lawns
Sow seeds of cool-season vegetables
Sow seeds of hardy perennials outdoors after heavy freezes have passed
Order summer-flowering bulbs (canna, calla, dahlia, gladiolus, elephant ear)


Zone 2

Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom
Feed cool-season lawns
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Prune roses (when temperatures are above freezing)

Zone 3
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees


Zone 4
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens





Zone 5
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens



Zone 6
Set out cool-season annuals
Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens



Zone 7

Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant bare-root and container roses
Plant or transplant warm-season annuals
Plant fruit trees
Spray dormant fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant heat-loving perennials
Uncover roses and apply dormant spray
Plant ornamental and evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Plant vegetable seedlings

Zone 8

Set out annuals
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant fall-blooming perennials
Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Prune flowering fruit trees during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables



Zone 9
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Plant fall-flowering bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are blooming or actively growing
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Prune deciduous and frost-sensitive fruit trees (when temperatures are above freezing)
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Plant tender and heat-loving perennials
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings

Zone 10
Plant annuals for summer color
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings


Zone 11
Sow seeds of summer annuals outdoors or indoors
Feed and water cacti and succulents as they start growth
Set out peppers, tomatoes, eggplant
Set out plants of summer annuals
Feed and water lawns as growth accelerates
Feed and groom house plants as growth recommences
Plant gladiolus and dahlias
Divide overgrown fall-blooming perennial clumps
Clear away scrub growth for fire protection
Cut back gift chrysanthemums and transplant to garden. Break into individual plants

information taken from http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneapr01.html




 

Friday, March 30, 2007

Growing Lettuce in the Home Garden

Growing Lettuce in the Home Garden
HYG-1610-92

Marianne Riofrio

An ever-expanding selection of greens for salads in the supermarket, as well as salad bars popping up in nearly every restaurant, is a reflection of the new health-conscious eating habits sweeping the United States. Several types of lettuce can be grown in the home garden adding variety, texture and color to the family diet.

Lettuce varieties can be loosely categorized into four groups: crisphead, butterhead, leaf, and romaine or cos. Each group has its own growth and taste characteristics.
Types of Lettuce

Crisphead lettuce is probably the most familiar of the four. It is characterized by a tight, firm head of crisp, light-green leaves. In general, crisphead lettuce is intolerant of hot weather, readily bolting or sending up a flower stalk under hot summer conditions. For this reason, plus the long growing period required, it is the most difficult of the lettuces to grow in the home garden.

The butterhead types have smaller, softer heads of loosely folded leaves. The outer leaves may be green or brownish with cream or butter colored inner leaves. There are several cultivars available that will do well in Ohio gardens.

Leaf lettuce has an open growth and does not form a head. Leaf form and color varies considerably. Some cultivars are frilled and crinkled and others deeply lobed. Color ranges from light green to red and bronze. Leaf lettuce matures quickly and is the easiest to grow.

Romaine or cos lettuces form upright, cylindrical heads of tightly folded leaves. The plants may reach up to 10 inches in height. The outer leaves are medium green with greenish white inner leaves. This is the sweeter of the four types.
Suggested Cultivars
Crisphead
Mesa 659 (fall), Ithaca
Butterhead
Bibb
Salad Bibb
Summer Bibb
Buttercrunch
Tania
Tom
Thumb (miniature)
Leaf
Salad Bowl
Grand Rapids
Black Seeded Simpson
Slobolt
Oakleaf
Green Ice
Prizehead
Red Sails
Lollo Rosso
Ruby
Red Fire
Romaine
Valmaine
Parris Island Cos
Climatic Requirements

Lettuce is a cool-season vegetable and develops best quality when grown under cool, moist conditions. Lettuce seedlings will tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45 F and 65 F are ideal. Such conditions usually prevail in Ohio in spring and fall. Seeds of leaf lettuce are usually planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Butterhead and romaine can be grown from either seeds or transplants. Due to its long-growing season, crisphead lettuce is grown from transplants. Transplants may be purchased or started indoors about six weeks before the preferred planting date.
Soil Requirements

Lettuce can be grown under a wide range of soils. Loose, fertile, sandy loam soils, well-supplied with organic matter are best. The soil should be well-drained, moist, but not soggy. Heavy soils can be modified with well-rotted manure, compost, or by growing a cover crop. Like most other garden vegetables, lettuce prefers a slightly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.5.
Cultural Practices

Since lettuce seed is very small, a well-prepared seedbed is essential. Large clods will not allow proper seed-to-soil contact, reducing germination. Lettuce does not have an extensive root system so an adequate supply of moisture and nutrients is also necessary for proper development.

Fertilizer and lime recommendations should be based on the results of a soil test. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office for information on soil testing. As a general rule, however, apply and work into the soil three to four pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden area.

Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. Wide rows should be 12 to 15 inches across. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil. Water carefully but thoroughly. Several successive plantings of leaf lettuce will provide a more continuous harvest throughout the growing season. Leave 18 inches between the rows for leaf lettuce, and 24 inches for the other types. To achieve proper spacing of plants, thinning of lettuce seedlings is usually necessary. Thin plants of leaf lettuce four to six inches or more between plants depending on plant size. Butterhead and romaine should be thinned six to ten inches between plants. Finally, crisphead transplants should be spaced 10 to 12 inches apart in the row.

An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool. If weeds do become a problem, either pull by hand or cultivate very shallowly to avoid damage to lettuce roots. Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, in the heat of the summer, may reduce bolting.

Insect pests and diseases can occasionally cause problems on lettuce. For proper identification and control recommendation, contact your local Cooperative Extension office.
Harvesting

All lettuce types should be harvested when full size but young and tender. Over-mature lettuce is bitter and woody. Leaf lettuce is harvested by removing individual outer leaves so that the center leaves can continue to grow. Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer leaves, digging up the whole plant or cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible this way. Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm.

The author gratefully acknowledges James D. Utzinger, on whose original fact sheet this is based.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1610.html

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Colleen Announces Mouse & Trowel Awards!

I saw this interesting post over at May Dreams Garden Blog on voting on your favorite garden blogs.

Here is the post.
Colleen Announces Mouse & Trowel Awards!

Colleen at In the Garden Online has started the first Mouse & Trowel awards for garden blogs. Visit her site to get all the details on what to do to nominate your favorite garden blogs in a variety of categories. Nominations are due by April 13th. Thanks, Colleen, it is about time that garden bloggers got some recognition!

Monday, March 26, 2007

Did some planting over the weekend

Hello
I did some planting over the weekend here in my hoosier gardens.
I put out some purple,orange,and pink pansies along with violas in some pots on the porch.

I got some daffodils at the garden center,and planted them as well.My forsythia bush is in full bloom,and is beautiful this year after pruning it back last fall.

I need to get in the strawberry patch next to do some weeding,and plant some new plants.

What are you doing in your garden?

Friday, March 23, 2007

Things that are budding,and blooming.

Hi
Looking over the yard this afternoon I have found my cone flowers are up about one inch,my daisys are coming on slowly,the forsythia bush is bloomed out,the red maple tree is budding out nicely,and a couple of my pea plants are peeking through the soil.

It wont be long now here in Indiana to get the garden season into full throttle.
What is budding or blooming at your place?

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

Make a Garden Water Fountain

While doing some research on simple water fountains I came across this simple,but unique water fountain at bluegrass gardens.

Water fountains are a fun,and relaxing addition to your garden plans.

Here is the link.
http://www.bluegrassgardens.com/make-water-garden-fountain.htm

Monday, March 19, 2007

Radish

Radish is a cool-season, fast-maturing, easy-to-grow vegetable. Garden radishes can be grown wherever there is sun and moist, fertile soil, even on the smallest city lot. Early varieties usually grow best in the cool days of early spring, but some later-maturing varieties can be planted for summer use. The variety French Breakfast holds up and grows better than most early types in summer heat if water is supplied regularly. Additional sowings of spring types can begin in late summer, to mature in the cooler, more moist days of fall. Winter radishes are sown in midsummer to late summer, much as fall turnips. They are slower to develop than spring radishes; and they grow considerably larger, remain crisp longer, are usually more pungent and hold in the ground or store longer than spring varieties.

Read More Here

Sunday, March 18, 2007

Cleaning Out The Garden Shed

I have spent most of this day cleaning out my garden shed getting ready for the growing season.I found all kinds of little treasures I had forgot that I had.

I even found a garden hoe,and rack I did not even know was in there.

What have you been doing to prepare for the growing season?

If granny gruners garden had a grid garden system,how many garden grids,could granny gruners grid garden system have?
Say that five times fast.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Tips For Preparing a Planting Bed

Tips For Preparing a Planting Bed

by Michael J. McGroarty of freeplants.com

Whether you preparing beds for landscaping around your house, or preparing a bed where you plan on growing landscape plants for profit, this article should simplify the process for you. I say that because of everything that is written about this subject, some of it is accurate, some of it is just plain wrong, and much of it is much more complicated than it needs to be. I like to think of myself as simple Simon. I find the easiest, yet most effective way to do things, and they work.

Let’s assume that the area where you are planning your bed is now planted in grass. How do you get rid of the grass. Chemicals or no chemicals? Chemicals are easy, so we’ll look at the chemical method first.

My favorite chemical for killing grass is RoundUp, and used properly it is effective. Rule number one: Read the label on the package, and mix the chemical exactly as recommended by the manufacture. Rule number two: Assume that every plant that the RoundUp touches is going to die. It is a non-selective herbicide.

ReadMore

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Tater Planting Time

Here in Indiana it is almost tater planting time again.

The old farmers always plant taters on good friday.

Tater Planting Time


Although some dedicated gardeners may have already planted their seed potatoes, for most of us, the ground has been a little too soggy. Some gardeners aim for planting on or around St. Patrick's Day, while others of us will be lucky to have them planted by Mother's Day!


Potatoes are considered to be cool-season plants and can be planted just as soon as the ground has thawed and dried enough to safely work the soil. However, it is critical to allow the soil to dry adequately. If worked while still too wet, soil forms compacted, hard clumps, leading to misshapen tubers later in the season.


The potato plant can adapt to most types of soil but must have good drainage to prevent the tubers from rotting before they can be harvested. Choose a sunny location and work in about 2-3 pounds of a balanced, low-analysis fertilizer, such as 12-12-12, per 100 square feet to promote vigorous plant growth.


The part of the potato plant that we eat is called a tuber, a technical name that refers to an enlarged modified stem that grows underground. Potato tubers that are used to create a new planting are called seed potatoes. You'll want to start with the best quality seed potatoes you can, so look for those that are labeled as certified disease-free at garden shops and in mail-order catalogs.


To start a new planting, cut the seed potato into pieces so that each individual piece has at least one healthy-looking bud (eye). That bud will become the shoot of the new plant and, as the stem develops, it will also produce new roots. The piece of old tuber attached to the bud provides a source of carbohydrates to sustain the young plant until those new roots and shoots develop. Plant the pieces 2-3 inches deep and space them about 12 inches apart within the row and 24-36 inches between rows.


New tubers that will become this year's harvest generally begin to form sometime in early to mid summer and continue to grow in size until early fall, as long as adequate moisture, air and nutrients are available.


The tubers can be harvested as new potatoes in mid to late summer, before they reach full size and before the skins start to toughen. New potatoes are tender and tasty, but they don't keep very long, and, since the plant must be pulled up to harvest the tubers, yields are generally small.


If you want bigger yields of full-size tubers, it's best to leave the plants until they begin to die back on their own, usually by late summer or early fall. As the plants begin to turn brown, gently lift the tubers with a digging fork and remove them from the plants. If the potatoes are going to be used immediately, no further treatment is needed. However, to be able to store the potatoes for later use, you'll want to allow the tubers to cure, or air-dry, for 1-2 weeks to allow the skins to thicken and dry.


The biggest challenge for gardeners is finding dark storage conditions at a temperature of 40-45 degrees. Both light and warmth promote sprouting of the buds. Store only the best quality tubers, which are free of cuts, bruises and diseases, for best results. Potatoes can be stored from 2 to 9 months, depending on the cultivar and storage conditions.

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

My Forsythia

My forsythia bush has gotten buds all upon it today.It should be in full bloom in a couple of days if the cold front coming in does not set it back.

What is budding out in your neck of the woods?

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

What have you planted so far?

What have you planted in the garden so far this season?I planted peas,and lettuce this past sunday afternoon in my garden beds.I am looking forward to watching them sprout up.

I have been busy this week building mulch bins for our garden center in Nineveh In.I will post some pictures as soon as they are done.

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Garden Peas

It is time to plant peas here in the midwest where I live.Here are some tips on the garden pea.

Garden Peas

Planting

Peas should be planted in early spring, well before the last frost. For an extended harvest, different varieties in successive plantings. Successive plantings of the same varieties tend to catch up with each other, resulting in one big harvest.

Peas will germinate faster if soaked in water overnight before planting.

Location and Planting

Peas are one of the first crops you will plant in your vegetable garden. Plant them as early in spring as the soil can be worked. They don't mind frost.

Peas need as much sun as possible. If you plant them in the shade the plants will grow and produce a crop of peas, but the sugar content will be low and the peas will taste old and starchy.

Peas grow best in a 16-inch wide double row, with a 16 inch wide pathway between rows. They won't need staking if planted this way because the plants will hold each other up, and a dense crop will shade the soil to help eliminate weeds.

ReadMore

Friday, March 9, 2007

What are you planning in the garden this weekend?

Hi
Weekend temps here in indiana are expected to be in the fifty's this weekend with highs in the 60's next week.So I am going to get out in the garden,and yard,and look over all my beds to see what I might do to them.

I am going to re- mulch my flower beds,and get rid of all the debris that still is in them.I think I will take a trip to the garden center as well to see if they have any cool weather flowers out yet.

What are your plans for the garden this weekend?

Thursday, March 8, 2007

Top Ten Perennials

The Top 10 Are...




By now, you're hooked. Your garden is increasingly a perennial one. Your yearly investment in annuals gets smaller and smaller, and every year more and more of your plantings return in the spring. Who was it who said, "Friends don't let friends plant annuals"?

ReadMore

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Strawberry Collection Full Season

Enjoy sweet strawberries all season! You get ten plants each of Ozark Beauty and Surecrop.

Ozark Beauty - Perfect for canning, freezing, preserves and eating right off the plant! They taste great any way you serve them. Very hardy. Fruits all season in full sun.

Surecrop - Enjoy giant spring-bearing Surecrop strawberries for a bounty of delicious fruit that's big on size and taste!

OrderHere

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

Spring is Near


While out on the job today I saw my first flock of Robins here in Indiana.

It was such a delight to see them running all around looking for worms,and such.
Seeing them let's one here in Indiana know it is almost time to get back out in the garden beds.

Monday, March 5, 2007

Propagating Roses

Today let's take the mystery out of propagating
roses. Roses are one of the most beautiful plants
in our gardens, and despite what many believe, they
can be grown from cuttings.Read this method from my good friend Mike McGroarty

The simple method is
here: http://www.freeplants.com/Roses.htm

Sunday, March 4, 2007

Growing EggPlant

Growing Eggplant

Climate

Eggplants need warmth throughout the growing season to do well. Eggplants need soil temperatures above 70° and daytime air temperatures above 70°. Eggplant seeds will not germinate in cool soil. Nighttime temperatures should be above 60°. Eggplants have a growing season of 100-150 days in ideal conditions. Although they do best in warm climates, they can be grown in northern climates if mulches, row covers, or hot houses are used.

Soil

Eggplants prefer well-drained sandy loam of pH 5.5 to 6.5 with high organic matter content. Eggplants need a moderate amount of nitrogen and high amounts of phosphorus and potassium. Eggplants like temperatures between 80° and 90° for optimal growth.
Spacing

Eggplants are typically spaced 18-24" apart in rows 30-36" wide. Rows should be 30-36" apart. Don't crowd eggplants, they will do better with a little extra room. They can be staked and supported like tomatoes to ensure proper air circulation.




Direct Seeding

In hot climates with long growing seasons, eggplants can be direct seeded in rows 1/2" deep and 18-24" apart after soil and air temperatures have warmed. Keep seeds evenly moist. For best results soil temperature should be 80°-90°.
Seeding For Transplants

Eggplants are most commonly started indoors or in a greenhouse. Soak seeds in water overnight to encourage germination. Eggplants are very sensitive to transplant shock so use peat pots that can be planted directly into the ground. Plant seeds singly in peat pots 1/4" deep and grow under lights if available. Use bottom heat to keep the soil warm, optimal soil temperature for germination is 85°. Air temperature should be above 70° during the day and above 60° at night.
Germination

These seeds germinate best in soils around 75°F - 90°F.
Germination will take 7-10 days.
Transplanting Into the Garden

Eggplants are very sensitive to transplant shock and benefit from several days of hardening off. About one week before transplanting, gradually expose them to the outside air by bringing the eggplant starts outside during the day and inside at night. Gradually increase the exposure each day (weather permitting, of course) until the plants are out until after dark.

When the eggplants are ready to be transplanted carefully place the peat pots in moist garden soil. In the north, use mulch to keep the soil warm and row covers over the plants to keep them warm at night.
Watering

Eggplants need regular watering, but they do not like to be kept too moist. Water eggplants to maintain uniform moisture. Water plants in the morning so the leaves are not damp through the night.
Harvesting

Eggplants are ready to harvest when the skin takes on a high gloss, at a third to half their mature size. To test for readiness, press the skin with your finger. If the indent does not spring back, it is ready to harvest. Fruits with dark brown seeds inside are past their prime.

Harvest eggplants when they are tender by clipping the fruit off with garden shears. Harvesting fruits regularly stimulates further production.
Post-Harvest Handling

Be careful not to damage the skin of eggplants. Wash and dry eggplants thoroughly.
Storage

Eggplants are not suited to long-term storage but they can be kept 1-2 weeks at 55° with a relative humidity of 85%-90%.

Eggplants are sensitive to ethylene gas so do not store them with fruits and vegetables that produce ethylene gas.
Diseases

Verticillium wilt
Pests

Flea beetles, aphids, potato beetles
Comments

Use black plastic to increase the yield of eggplant by helping to warm the soil, conserve moisture, and control weeds.

Rotate crops to prevent diseases.

Insects love eggplant. Use row or mesh covers help alleviate this problem. If covers are used, however, the flowers must be pollinated by hand.
References

Oregon State University, "Eggplant, Commercial Vegetable Production Guide", Last modified 2002-12-27, Oregon State University, http:www.orst.edu/Dept/NWREC/eggplant.html, Accessed 2003-05-16

Bradley, F. M. and Ellis, B. W.(Ed.). (1992), Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening: The Indispensable Resource for Every Gardener, Emmaus, Pennsylvania: Rodale Press.

Smith, E.C. (2000), The vegetable gardener's bible: discover Ed's high yield W-O-R-D system for all North American gardening regions., Storey Books: Pownal, VT.

Saturday, March 3, 2007

March Gardening To Do List

March Gardening To Do List


Zone 1

Order indoor seed starting kits and seeds
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Water indoor cymbidium orchids weekly until they bloom
Sow seeds indoors for tender perennials and annuals
Clean, oil and sharpen tools
Zone 2

Order seeds and seed starting systems
Sow seeds indoors or cold frame
Remove mulch from early bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Clean, oil and sharpen tools
Order or construct a cold frame for starting vegetables outdoors

Zone 3

Order seeds
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants
Remove mulch from early bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors

Zone 4

Plant bare root trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors


Zone 5

Plant dormant, hardy container and balled and burlapped plants
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Remove winter mulch, lightly cultivate soil if thawed
Prune out winter damage
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees
Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials indoors
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune winter-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables (asparagus, rhubarb etc.)
Plant seedlings of cool-season vegetables
Sow seeds for cool- and warm-season vegetables
Protect tender plants from frost


Zone 6

Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Prune out winter damage
Feed cool-season lawns
Remove winter mulch, lightly cultivate soil if thawed
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Prune roses (when temperatures remain above freezing)


Zone 7

Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens
Zone 8

Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant bare-root and container roses
Plant or transplant warm-season annuals
Plant fruit trees
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant heat-loving perennials
Plant ornamental and evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Plant warm-seasoned vegetable seedlings

Zone 9

Set out warm season annuals
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Plant container fruit trees
Prune fruit trees after bloom and fruit setting
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Repair or plant lawns with warm season grasses (Bermuda, St. Augustine etc.)
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant fall-blooming perennials
Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Prune flowering fruit trees during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables

Zone 10

Get ahead of the bugs by hand-picking or spraying with organic preparations
Fertilize oleander, Bauhinia, hibiscus and citrus while in bloom with a low-nitrogen plant food
Mulch with at least two inches of decomposed hardwood material such as pine bark, pine needles, or cypress bark to conserve moisture in flower and vegetable beds
Plant avocados, papaya, breadfruit and mango, tababuia and tibuchina trees
Plant seed, seedlings, or rooted starts of herbs and vegetables such as peppers, okra, cantaloupe, watermelons, peanuts, sweet potatoes, luffa, chayote, lemon grass and mint
In drought-prone areas, install simple drip-irrigation systems to take care of summer watering needs


Zone 11

Get ahead of the bugs by hand-picking or spraying with organic preparations
Fertilize oleander, Bauhinia, hibiscus and citrus while in bloom with a low-nitrogen plant food
Mulch with at least two inches of decomposed hardwood material such as pine bark, pine needles, or cypress bark to conserve moisture in flower and vegetable beds
Plant avocados, papaya, breadfruit and mango, tababuia and tibuchina trees
Plant seed, seedlings, or rooted starts of herbs and vegetables such as peppers, okra, cantaloupe, watermelons, peanuts, sweet potatoes, luffa, chayote, lemon grass and mint
In drought-prone areas, install simple drip-irrigation systems to take care of summer watering needs.