Sunday, September 30, 2007

October Gardening To Do List

October Gardening To Do List




Zone 1
Finish planting container-grown trees and shrubs
Plant needle-bearing evergreens early in the month
If the month is dry, repeat the September soaking
Check ties on trees, and loosen any that look tight
Finish bulb planting early in the month
Cover compost to keep it warm and working
Observe trees for fall color; jot names of the best in your notebook
Dig dahlia roots after tops are frosted


Zone 2
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 3
Start fall compost pile
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 4
Start fall compost pile
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Protect roses for winter
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant balled-and-burlapped trees
Plant trees in containers
Plant frost-tolerant trees

Zone 5
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Protect roses for winter
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees

Zone 6
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees
Plant permanent ground covers
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Protect roses for winter
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens


Zone 7
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Rake lawn to remove debris
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune fall-flowering shrubs just after bloom
Protect tender plants from frost
Zone 8
Plant for fall and winter color
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 9
Plant for fall color with annuals
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are growing or blooming
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Rake lawns to remove debris
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant or transplant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 10
Plant annuals for fall color
Set out fall and winter-blooming plants
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Sow cool-season vegetable seeds
Start seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 11
Finish planting spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container-grown trees and shrubs
Feed and water lawn to encourage overseeded grass
Prune back summer- and fall-blooming shrubs
Allow rose hips to form; it will encourage early dormancy in bushes

article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneoct01.html

Saturday, September 22, 2007

WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS

WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS

This article is from the Beginners Handbook.
Purchase the complete handbook online.

When selecting a good location to grow chrysanthemums, a number of things should be considered.

SUNSHINE

The chrysanthemum does best in full sun. All of us do not always have a location where full sunshine can be provided. In most places, five to six hours will be sufficient to produce a healthy plant. When a choice exists between early morning sun and afternoon sun, select the morning sun. There, early drying will help to avoid mildew and other diseases. This effect is usually helpful to most plants.

DRAINAGE

Another condition to be considered in site selection is water drainage. Since chrysanthemums require good drainage, a low, level site in which rain collects should be avoided. When higher ground fails to drain well, all is not hopeless. The solution is to construct raised beds. Pressure treated wood, nominal 2 inch by eight inch is most satisfactory and readily available. After the bed is so outlined it should then be filled with suitable soil.

NIGHT LIGHTS

There are still other conditions which influence the selection of a location for chrysanthemum planting. One undesirable influence is the presence of a street or other light source at night. As will be explained later in more detail, light at night serves to delay the bloom date.

ROOT COMPETITION

When possible, beds should be located at a sufficient distance from larger plants to avoid extensive root competition. When root competition cannot be avoided, a barrier may be considered. Barriers may be open ditches or underground walls of metal, masonry, or lumber. Walls or barriers eight to twelve inches deep will usually prove to be sufficient.

AIR DRAINAGE

Finally, consideration should be given to a factor of which few people are aware. This factor is air drainage. Air flows in the same manner as water. Heavier cold air flows downhill while lighter warm air rises. Plants should be located away from walls or obstructions which would hinder air flow. Air movement helps to dry moist foliage and thus reduces development of mildew. Air flow also provides a cooling effect

NO YARD AT ALL

With limited yard or no yard at all, chrysanthemums can be grown successfully in containers. With containers, the soil can be formulated for good drainage and the containers can be moved to provide maximum sunlight and protection from the elements.

article reprinted from theNational Chrysanthemums Society