tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16584901889830570652024-02-19T05:45:08.830-05:00Granny Gruners GardenGardening articles,and suppliessteven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.comBlogger69125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-83214196764314955472008-03-01T22:33:00.001-05:002008-03-01T22:36:23.798-05:00March Gardening To Do ListZone 1<br /><br />Order indoor seed starting kits and seeds<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Water indoor cymbidium orchids weekly until they bloom<br />Sow seeds indoors for tender perennials and annuals<br />Clean, oil and sharpen tools<br />Zone 2<br /><br />Order seeds and seed starting systems<br />Sow seeds indoors or cold frame<br />Remove mulch from early bulbs<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br />Clean, oil and sharpen tools<br />Order or construct a cold frame for starting vegetables outdoors<br /><br />Zone 3<br /><br />Order seeds<br />Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants<br />Remove mulch from early bulbs<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br /><br />Zone 4<br /><br />Plant bare root trees<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br /><br /><br />Zone 5<br /><br />Plant dormant, hardy container and balled and burlapped plants<br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors<br />Remove winter mulch, lightly cultivate soil if thawed<br />Prune out winter damage<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees<br />Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennials<br />Sow seeds for tender perennials indoors<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune winter-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables (asparagus, rhubarb etc.)<br />Plant seedlings of cool-season vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool- and warm-season vegetables<br />Protect tender plants from frost<br /><br /><br />Zone 6<br /><br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors<br />Prune out winter damage<br />Feed cool-season lawns<br />Remove winter mulch, lightly cultivate soil if thawed<br />Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br />Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials<br />Plant bare-root and container roses<br />Prune roses (when temperatures remain above freezing)<br /><br /><br />Zone 7<br /><br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell<br />Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Sow seeds for tender perennials<br />Plant container and bare-root roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens<br />Zone 8<br /><br />Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom<br />Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Plant permanent ground covers<br />Plant or repair lawns<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Plant bare-root and container roses<br />Plant or transplant warm-season annuals<br />Plant fruit trees<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Plant heat-loving perennials<br />Plant ornamental and evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom<br />Plant warm-seasoned vegetable seedlings<br /><br />Zone 9<br /><br />Set out warm season annuals<br />Plant summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant container fruit trees<br />Prune fruit trees after bloom and fruit setting<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Repair or plant lawns with warm season grasses (Bermuda, St. Augustine etc.)<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Plant fall-blooming perennials<br />Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines<br />Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom<br />Prune flowering fruit trees during or just after bloom<br />Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables<br /><br />Zone 10<br /><br />Get ahead of the bugs by hand-picking or spraying with organic preparations<br />Fertilize oleander, Bauhinia, hibiscus and citrus while in bloom with a low-nitrogen plant food<br />Mulch with at least two inches of decomposed hardwood material such as pine bark, pine needles, or cypress bark to conserve moisture in flower and vegetable beds<br />Plant avocados, papaya, breadfruit and mango, tababuia and tibuchina trees<br />Plant seed, seedlings, or rooted starts of herbs and vegetables such as peppers, okra, cantaloupe, watermelons, peanuts, sweet potatoes, luffa, chayote, lemon grass and mint<br />In drought-prone areas, install simple drip-irrigation systems to take care of summer watering needs<br /><br /><br />Zone 11<br /><br />Get ahead of the bugs by hand-picking or spraying with organic preparations<br />Fertilize oleander, Bauhinia, hibiscus and citrus while in bloom with a low-nitrogen plant food<br />Mulch with at least two inches of decomposed hardwood material such as pine bark, pine needles, or cypress bark to conserve moisture in flower and vegetable beds<br />Plant avocados, papaya, breadfruit and mango, tababuia and tibuchina trees<br />Plant seed, seedlings, or rooted starts of herbs and vegetables such as peppers, okra, cantaloupe, watermelons, peanuts, sweet potatoes, luffa, chayote, lemon grass and mint<br />In drought-prone areas, install simple drip-irrigation systems to take care of summer watering needs.<br /><br /><br />article courtesy of <a href="http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonemar01.html">http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonemar01.html</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-348107414221639602008-01-23T01:19:00.000-05:002008-01-23T01:25:40.238-05:00Q&A: Plants For Beginner GardenersWondering what kind of plants to plant with your kids?Here is a great article on simple plants<br />that one can grow with their children from <a href="http://www.arcamax.com/gardening/s-156560-878630">ArcaMax.com</a> titled Plants For Beginner Gardeners.<br /><br />Question: What can I plant with my 5-year-old that is easy to grow and low-maintenance?<br /><br />Answer: Choose things that are quick to germinate and grow or that have sensory delights for children. Radishes germinate easily, mature quickly (about 20 to 25 days), and kids seem to love to pull them out of the ground. There's an 'Easter Egg' blend with round radishes in an assortment of colors. Sweet peas are extremely fragrant and pretty. (Soak the seeds in water overnight for easier germination.) Sunflowers and hollyhocks are magical. You might want to use some transplants also.<br /><br />Try bedding plants such as lamb's ears (which are soft and wooly), pansies, and Johnny jump-ups (their little faces are fun). Chocolate mint is an easy-to-grow herb. In fact, all mints are so easy to grow and invasive that they are best planted in containers submerged in the garden (unless you want them to take over). Marigolds and cherry tomatoes are other good choices.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-70262350658632706362008-01-08T18:52:00.000-05:002008-01-08T19:02:32.342-05:00Grow Yourself a Grapevine!Here is another great how-to article from my good friend Mike McGroarty on grapevines.<br />Grow Yourself a Grapevine!<br /><br />Most grapes are really easy to propagate, and middle<br />of the winter is an ideal to do it.<br /><br />1. Cut some vines from the parent plant. You can cut<br />these vines as long as you want, I've worked with vines<br />12' long.<br /><br />2. Cut the vines into cuttings. Start at the thick end of<br />the vine. (the bottom or butt end). Notice the bumps on<br />the vine. Those are bud unions, and on grapes they can<br />be as far apart as 6 inches. Make a cut right below, but<br />not into a bud union. Then skip a bud union, then make<br />a cut right above the next bud union. The second cut can<br />be as much as one inch above the top bud union. Each<br />cutting should have three buds. Top, bottom and middle.<br /><br />3. Remove any side branches (curly cues) from your cutting.<br /><br />4. Take your finished cuttings out to the garden, dig a<br />trench about 8 inches deep and place your cuttings in the<br />trench, leaving the top bud sticking out of the ground about 2".<br />Pack loose soil around your cuttings.<br /><br />5. That's it you're done! If you have some rooting compound<br />for hardwood cuttings you can dip the cuttings in rooting<br />compound before placing them in the trench, but you really<br />don't need it. They'll root without it.<br /><br />6. Water them as needed when it's dry, but don't keep them<br />soaking wet.<br /><br />7. Some grapes are typically grafted, but you can still try<br />rooting them this way, it might work. Concord, Niagara and<br />Catawba for sure can be rooted this way.<br /><br /><br />(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)<br /><a href="http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm">www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm</a><br />Have a great week!<br />-Mike McGroarty<br /><br />P.S. The message board is here:<br />http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-58640897820872223832008-01-01T09:23:00.000-05:002008-01-01T09:28:01.372-05:00Janurary Garden to do ListJanuary Gardening To Do List<br /><br /> <br /><br /><br />Zone 1<br />Order seed and nursery catalogues<br />Check dahlia and canna roots for plumpness, freedom from mold<br />Check house plants for mites, mealybugs, and scale<br />Cut back on feeding house plants<br />Protect bases of fruit tree trunks against rodent damage with wire mesh<br />Plant living Christmas trees if ground is workable<br />Clean and oil garden tools<br />Plan flower and vegetable beds<br /><br />Zone 2<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom<br /><br />Zone 3<br />Order seeds<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom<br /><br /><br />Zone 4<br />Order seeds<br />Sow seeds indoors for hardy spring-blooming plants<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br /><br />Zone 5<br />Order seeds<br />Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br /><br />Zone 6<br />Order seeds<br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals<br />Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br /><br /><br />Zone 7<br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell<br />Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Sow seeds for tender perennials<br />Plant container and bare-root roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens<br /><br />Zone 8<br />Order seeds<br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors<br />Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming annuals<br />Plant fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Move living Christmas trees outdoors<br />Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennials<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Apply dormant spray to bare-root roses<br />Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune winter-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool-season vegetables<br />Protect tender plants from frost<br /><br /><br />Zone 9<br />Order seeds<br />Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming annuals<br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors<br />Plant summer-flowering bulbs<br />Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming<br />Plant bare-root fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees<br />Plant citrus<br />Move living Christmas tree outdoors<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennial seeds indoors<br />Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennial seedlings outdoors<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Apply dormant spray to roses<br />Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-season and winter vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool-season and winter vegetables<br />Protect tender plants from frost<br /><br /><br />Zone 10<br />Order seeds<br />Set out cool-season annuals<br />Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming annuals<br />Plant winter-, spring-, and summer-blooming bulbs<br />Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming<br />Plant bare-root fruit trees<br />Prune flowering fruit trees while in bloom<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Plant citrus<br />Protect citrus from frost damage<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Move living Christmas trees outdoors<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Apply dormant spray to roses<br />Plant bare-root shrubs and vines<br />Apply dormant sprays to trees, shrubs and vines<br />Prune evergreen shrubs<br />Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines<br />Plant bare-root trees<br />Sow cool-season vegetable seeds<br />Plant or transplant cool-season vegetable seedlings<br />Sow warm-season vegetable seeds<br /><br /><br />Zone 11<br />.Order seeds and plants from catalogues.<br />Sow seeds of hardy annuals outdoors (larkspur, bachelor's button, poppy)<br />Set out plants of early-spring blooming perennials (primrose, calendula, viola, pansy)<br />Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, vegetables<br />Check house plants for mites, mealybugs<br />Prune fruit trees if you have not previously done so<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees, roses<br /><br />article courtesy of <a href="http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonejan01.html">http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonejan01.html</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> <br /> <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> <br /> steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-24664269342415214042007-12-17T21:05:00.000-05:002007-12-17T21:08:47.111-05:00Caring for Poinsettias and Making Them Re bloom<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAqOG9tJad89p3Rld715Xm4-XdghYHw7o66Njal3uGLzzqrkUzKEzCouknxOmAKbOTNPGQ1hKA4ML9D1YahHyGbzLJw7hgM2hPUulWF5S3Wjx4riGxcuE4ItmJTOMD1DPJhHL4Ri-X7Nd/s1600-h/images.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAqOG9tJad89p3Rld715Xm4-XdghYHw7o66Njal3uGLzzqrkUzKEzCouknxOmAKbOTNPGQ1hKA4ML9D1YahHyGbzLJw7hgM2hPUulWF5S3Wjx4riGxcuE4ItmJTOMD1DPJhHL4Ri-X7Nd/s200/images.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145129098188661010" /></a><br />Here is another great article by my good friend Mike I would like to share.<br /><br />Caring for Poinsettias and Making Them Re bloom<br /><br /><br />Poinsettias, a bright and cheerful symbol of the holiday<br />season, are often thought of as "throwaway" plants to be<br />set on the curb when their red blooms fade. Rather than<br />buying a new plant each December, with proper care you can<br />keep your poinsettias blooming for another holiday season.<br /><br />Poinsettia plants enjoy indirect sunlight for at least six<br />hours each day while they are blooming. They prefer to be<br />slightly on the dry side and will not be happy if they are<br />overwatered. While the plant is flowering it should not be<br />fertilized, but after the plant has finished blooming an all-<br />purpose fertilizer may be applied..<br /><br />To enjoy your poinsettia blooms for another holiday season,<br />it should be cut back to about 8 inches in late March or early<br />April. It can be fertilized about once a month, and by late<br />May new growth will begin to appear.<br /><br />Once there is no more danger of frost and nighttime temperatures<br />stay above 55 degrees F, your poinsettia may be kept outdoors<br />for the summer. Fertilizing can be done every 2-3 weeks during<br />the summer, and the plant can be pruned to keep it full and<br />compact. In warm climates a poinsettia may be planted directly<br />in the garden but in cooler climates it is best to transplant<br />your poinsettia into a pot that is just slightly larger than<br />its original pot. This can be done in early June. Be sure to<br />use a well-draining potting soil.<br /><br />As temperatures begin to cool in late summer, the plant should<br />again be brought indoors. Longer nights will cause poinsettias<br />to set buds and produce flowers during November or December.<br />To encourage your poinsettia to bloom for the Christmas holiday,<br />you must carefully control the amount of light the plant receives.<br /><br />To bloom for Christmas, the plant must be kept in total darkness<br />for 14 hours each night during October, November and early<br />December, along with 6-8 hours of bright sunlight. This can be<br />accomplished by moving the poinsettia to a dark closet each<br />night, making sure that no light sneaks beneath the door. Or<br />simply cover the plant with a large box each night. No peeking!<br />Any stray light will upset the schedule.<br /><br />During October, November and early December the plant needs 6-8<br />hours of bright sunlight along with 14 hours of total darkness.<br />The ideal temperature for your poinsettia is between 60 and 70<br />degrees. Warmer or cooler temperatures can also delay flowering.<br />Continue fertilizing monthly until the blossoms appear.<br /><br />Follow this schedule of daylight and darkness for 8-10 weeks and<br />your poinsettia will reward you with a colorful holiday display!<br /><br /><br />(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)<br />http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm<br /><br />Have a great week!<br />-Mike McGroarty<br /><br />P.S. The message board is here:<br />http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />McGroarty Enterprises Inc.<br />P.O. Box 338<br />Perry, Ohio 44081steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-28262872451834070462007-12-16T09:17:00.000-05:002007-12-16T09:32:09.589-05:00Composting Methods<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxJwh5EPg7_TcmpLFVYo_408Vovra4nvabawFdqKIoYGGeXi0MhEGfbJTIRcBzrSH-u0YIgxrAIaeI4oDqtGjGysnAyAWiVD8iE4iDCC1Ipwqr3vWNdk8dLIkIvpRYbFWE1uaozQPE9k_/s1600-h/compostbin01.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxJwh5EPg7_TcmpLFVYo_408Vovra4nvabawFdqKIoYGGeXi0MhEGfbJTIRcBzrSH-u0YIgxrAIaeI4oDqtGjGysnAyAWiVD8iE4iDCC1Ipwqr3vWNdk8dLIkIvpRYbFWE1uaozQPE9k_/s200/compostbin01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5144577856316088226" /></a><br />Here at Granny's garden we are big on the use of composting for beneficial use's in our garden.<br />There are many benefits to using compost in the garden that range from Biological Benefits to<br />Chemical Benefits.<br /><br />There is a wonderful article on the different ways of composting methods over at the University of Illinois Extension titled Composting for the Homeowner it explains the different methods of composting.This is a great <br />read for anyone interested in the subject of composting.I recommend you give it a look.<br /><a href="http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/methods.html#5">Composting Methods</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-53416424203970400222007-12-10T22:10:00.000-05:002007-12-11T17:29:33.592-05:00Growing and Caring for Amaryllis Indoors<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNDgCIekd2PQFP8G5KlLWEQ6VbjAT5NZYSjqiPZHCeaKzeuKRnb3uunnbeMpvRFFPBOEf2Y3QZo53FUlBtNpB2ElH8ZcbggR9hcq7riZ1l2dqmlw0EfOx3vhJr_IPGPOiVZaypk5JjRRfV/s1600-h/images.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNDgCIekd2PQFP8G5KlLWEQ6VbjAT5NZYSjqiPZHCeaKzeuKRnb3uunnbeMpvRFFPBOEf2Y3QZo53FUlBtNpB2ElH8ZcbggR9hcq7riZ1l2dqmlw0EfOx3vhJr_IPGPOiVZaypk5JjRRfV/s200/images.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142846074676772610" /></a><br /><br />Growing and Caring for Amaryllis Indoors<br />Here is anothet great article by my good friend Mike I thought you might enjoy.<br /><br />Amaryllis bulbs are often given as gifts for the holidays,<br />later producing spectacular flowers to brighten the<br />recipient's home or office. Amaryllis bulbs can be found<br />in many stores in December, or in mail-order catalogs.<br />The bulbs are sold separately or already planted in pots.<br /><br />If you're purchasing unpotted bulbs, choose those that are<br />large and feel solid. The largest bulbs will produce two<br />or more flower stalks and larger blooms. Select a pot for<br />the bulb that is an inch or two wider than the diameter of<br />the bulb, and plant the bulb in well-draining potting soil<br />that does not include pine bark. A mix of equal amounts of<br />perlite and peat can also be used for potting amaryllis bulbs.<br />The upper half to third of the bulb should remain above the<br />soil surface.<br /><br />Once planted, water the pot well and place it in a location<br />where the temperature is 70-75 degrees. Some sources say<br />that the bulb should not be watered again until the bulb<br />sprouts. Once it sprouts, the soil should be kept moist but<br />not soggy.<br /><br />After the bulb sprouts, move the plant to a sunny window and<br />give it a half-strength dose of fertilizer once or twice monthly.<br />Turn the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing straight.<br />The stalk may need to be staked if it tends to lean.<br /><br />Once the flowers appear, move the plant to an area with cooler<br />temperatures and indirect light. Cooler temperatures will prolong<br />the life of the blossoms.<br /><br />When the flowers fade, cut off the flower stalks about an inch<br />above the bulb. Remove any dead foliage but leave the green<br />foliage on the plant so they can help the plant store energy.<br /><br />Amaryllis bulbs will produce flowers year after year if treated<br />correctly. After the plant has finished blooming, move it back<br />to a sunny window and give it water when the soil surface is dry.<br />Continue fertilizing once or twice monthly until outdoor<br />temperatures stay well above freezing, generally in May.<br />Gradually expose the plant to outdoor temperatures and sunlight<br />for several days, then plant pot and all in a spot where it will<br />receive partial to full sun.<br /><br />Bring the plant back indoors in mid-September and place it in a<br />cool, somewhat dark location such as an unheated garage or<br />basement to induce dormancy, and stop watering the plant.<br />Remove the leaves as they become brown, and keep the bulb at<br />a temperature of 50-55 degrees for 8-10 weeks. After this time the<br />plant can be moved back to its sunny window and watered well.<br />New growth will soon appear, followed by another round of lovely<br />blossoms.<br /><br />(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)<br />http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm<br /><br />Have a great week!<br />-Mike McGroarty<br /><br />P.S. The message board is here:<br />http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-20669390438157871032007-12-09T12:02:00.000-05:002007-12-09T12:26:12.213-05:00Linky Love Train<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDU6QHFXpj9bNsfiq7qs4O35qpPn0qktAf5WFLvA3w0buA31i1yjrlzAob_nvr__rI8sfAB7ApbVz7KA-UxACs8A9PD6zvtOw_7nV22f6e1guuTxX1Fp8eaGtUq70MjXxAfwyh6aqFHcJ/s1600-h/Choo+Choo.gif"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDU6QHFXpj9bNsfiq7qs4O35qpPn0qktAf5WFLvA3w0buA31i1yjrlzAob_nvr__rI8sfAB7ApbVz7KA-UxACs8A9PD6zvtOw_7nV22f6e1guuTxX1Fp8eaGtUq70MjXxAfwyh6aqFHcJ/s200/Choo+Choo.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142025743439907826" /></a><br />Get aboard the Linky Love train. Chris from the <a href="http://dietskinallergiesindogs.blogspot.com/">The Dog Log</a> blog invited me to join her on a new linky love train. I've never been on board one before, so I'm definitely game for it. Plus this is such an easy tag, how can I not join in the fun?<br /><br />The rules: when you get tagged, you have to add your name below the person who tagged you and by doing so you are letting the list grow.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.limadang.com/">Limadang.com</a><br /><a href="http://ramblingmoo.com/">RamblingMoo.com</a><br /><a href="http://inmypyjamas.blogspot.com/">blogginginmypyjamas</a><br /><a href="http://stylewithpassionz.com/">StylewithPassion</a><br /><a href="http://demoments.net/blog">Chinneeq</a><br /><a href="http://www.zooropazoo.blogspot.com/">dorazooropazoo</a><br /><a href="http://babyshern.blogspot.com/">Babyshern</a><br /><a href="http://hipncoolmomma.com/">HiPnCooLMoMMa</a><br /><a href="http://mysoulfulthoughts.com/">Rachel’s Soulful Thoughts</a><br /><a href="http://www.mitchteryosa.com/">When Silence Speaks</a><br /><a href="http://midlifedancing.blogspot.com/">Dancing in Midlife Tune</a><br /><a href="http://takkijen.blogspot.com/">Underneath it All</a><br /><a href="http://iamdzoi.com/">I am Dzoi</a><br /><a href="http://www.hobbiesandsuch.com/">Hobbies and Such</a><br /><a href="http://mlizcochico.blogspot.com/">moms…..check nyo</a><br /><a href="http://chocmintgirl.blogspot.com/">Choc Mint Gi</a>rl<br /><a href="http://ailema4ever.blogspot.com/">Amel’s Realm</a><br /><a href="http://stacys1175.blogspot.com/">My Thoughts</a><br /><a href="http://kasper794.blogspot.com/">Rusin Roundup</a><br /><a href="http://julianarw.blogspot.com/">Juliana’s Site</a><br /><a href="http://maxcouti.blogspot.com/">Max</a><br /><a href="http://ruangsudut.info/">Rooms of My Heart</a><br /><a href="http://mariuca.blogspot.com/">Mariuca</a><br /><a href="http://grottynosh.wordpress.com/">Colin aka cotojo</a><br /><a href="http://agreatpleasure.blogspot.com/">A Great Pleasure</a><br /><a href="http://mondaymorningpower.blogspot.com/">MondayMorningPower </a><br /><a href="http://dietskinallergiesindogs.blogspot.com/">The dog log</a><br /><a href="http://grannygrunersgarden.blogspot.com/">Granny Gruners Garden</a><br /><br />I would like to tag my good friend Waliz from the <a href="http://walizdiary.blogspot.com/">Waliz Diary</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-83811142259823107942007-12-03T20:37:00.000-05:002007-12-03T20:39:23.223-05:00Caring for a Live (Balled) Christmas TreeHere is a great article on Caring for a Live (Balled) Christmas Tree by my good friend Mike.<br /><br />Live Christmas trees (balled in burlap) are great<br />because you can enjoy them for Christmas, then enjoy<br />them in your yard for 20 or 30 years or more. But you<br />must know how to care for them and how to plant them<br />in your yard.<br /><br />1. Keep your live tree in the house for as short a period<br />of time as possible. Try to keep it in inside for no more<br />than three weeks.<br /><br />2. Keep the root ball watered well, they dry out quickly.<br />But don't water it so much that it's soggy or submerged in<br />water.<br /><br />3. Dig a hole in your yard the size of the root ball BEFORE<br />you move the tree inside. That way as soon as Christmas<br />is over you can get the tree planted even if the ground is<br />frozen Do not dig the hole too deep. Once in the hole the<br />top of the ball should be at least 1" above ground. Then<br />mound soil over the root ball so the burlap is not exposed.<br /><br />4. Keep enough loose soil in your garage in a wheelbarrow<br />to cover the root ball after planting. The ground might be<br />frozen after Christmas.<br /><br />5. Don't store your tree in the garage after Christmas. It will<br />be much happier in the ground, even if it's really cold outside.<br /><br />6. Do not fertilize your tree. Come spring you can fertilize<br />with an organic fertilizer. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer.<br /><br />7. Enjoy your live Christmas tree for many years to come.<br /><br />(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)<br />http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm<br /><br />Have a great week!<br />-Mike McGroarty<br /><br />P.S. The message board is here:<br />http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />McGroarty Enterprises Inc.<br />P.O. Box 338<br />Perry, Ohio 44081steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-86886413278538094672007-11-25T13:45:00.000-05:002007-11-25T13:54:52.582-05:00Window Sill Herb Garden<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmwvXbO1mnjr6GDW8f86maoUGAuZnI9QBp5u3KZVO9T8wPuPSsnTuFF6Ym8s4tBwZjdEjVb0-1NyftiQh30k1k3pXeSD5LKKwBzxj8MI1pk8QPBc9FnP7Jbg33itxysENZguabTb2-DFg/s1600-h/23042987.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmwvXbO1mnjr6GDW8f86maoUGAuZnI9QBp5u3KZVO9T8wPuPSsnTuFF6Ym8s4tBwZjdEjVb0-1NyftiQh30k1k3pXeSD5LKKwBzxj8MI1pk8QPBc9FnP7Jbg33itxysENZguabTb2-DFg/s200/23042987.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136853225072142194" /></a><br />Ever thought of planting a window sill herb garden to get you over those winter blues?<br />It would be nice to have some fresh herbs growing in the kitchen window sill this winter<br />to help take away those winter blues plus you could get some health benefits at the same time.<br /><br />Most herbs will get by on at least 6 hours of sunlight a day.So if you have a sunny window sill then<br />you are in business.Basil, chives, sweet marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme are especially well suited to growing in windowsill gardens.<br /><br />So get out your potting mix, container,and get started today.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-14424177102595235592007-11-24T09:00:00.000-05:002007-11-24T09:06:28.390-05:00Mulch Fall-Planted Bulbs<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vjB8IxowXl88qUlLXb-o9UPcbrwXMbUhxL3I_AXHoFeem1G_Ern0glA9-vBSeKUDeVO6TsO8oNAev9ZifFUjpiKn1qkorXZPbswvVfhIf1IF4ArV51uCQSTCVOV4nmYPpkzwv-axin9q/s1600-h/images.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vjB8IxowXl88qUlLXb-o9UPcbrwXMbUhxL3I_AXHoFeem1G_Ern0glA9-vBSeKUDeVO6TsO8oNAev9ZifFUjpiKn1qkorXZPbswvVfhIf1IF4ArV51uCQSTCVOV4nmYPpkzwv-axin9q/s200/images.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136408004467271474" /></a><br />Remember those fall planted spring flowering bulbs you recently planted?<br />They will need a little protection this winter for spring beauty.<br /><br />To protect fall planted, spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips for winter mulch them after a few hard freezes with a 2 to 3 inch thick layer of shredded bark.<br /><br />This should help you to have a beautiful spring garden.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-21626106441603526682007-11-21T17:44:00.000-05:002007-11-21T17:46:11.154-05:00Happy Thanksgiving<a href="http://www.wishafriend.com/graphics/" target="new"><img src="http://www.wishafriend.com/graphics/images/thanksgiving29.gif" border="0" alt="Myspace Graphics" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.wishafriend.com/graphics/" target="new">Myspace Graphics</a> at WishAFriend.com<br /><br />All of us here at Granny Gruners Garden would like to wish you a wonderful,and safe Thanksgiving.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-18759811760861570212007-11-05T20:19:00.000-05:002007-11-05T20:27:56.726-05:00Winter is Coming/Something to Think AboutMake sure all of your garden hoses are disconnected<br />from the faucets. Today most homes are equipped with<br />"frost free" hose bibs that are not supposed to freeze.<br />But what most people don't realize is that unless you<br />disconnect the hose from the faucet the water inside of<br />the faucet can not drain and they can and will freeze and<br />break inside the wall. Simply disconnect the hose so the<br />water inside the faucet can run out.<br /><br />If you live in the south you need not worry. In the north pipes do freeze<br />and bust wide open if we don't take precautions. It just<br />adds to ambience of living in the north.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-39572356219837311582007-11-04T07:50:00.000-05:002007-11-04T07:56:27.659-05:00November Garden To Do ListNovember Gardening To Do List<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Zone 1<br />Thin dense-growing trees to avoid wind damage<br />Apply mulch around plants after ground freezes<br />Cut back chrysanthemums after bloom; mulch heavily or dig and store in basement or garage<br />Set up burlap screens on windward sides of choice shrubs<br />Prune deciduous trees and roses after leaves have fallen<br /><br />Zone 2<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br /><br /><br />Zone 3<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br /><br /><br />Zone 4<br />Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Buy spring-blooming bulbs<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Protect roses for winter<br /><br />Zone 5<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Protect roses for winter<br /><br />Zone 6<br />Start fall compost pile<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Protect roses for winter<br /><br /><br />Zone 7<br />Plant ornamental trees<br />Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter<br />Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Rake lawn to remove debris<br />Protect roses for the winter<br />Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs during or just after bloom<br />Prune hardy deciduous and evergreen shrubs and vines<br />Protect tender plants from frost<br />Zone 8<br />Lightly cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter<br />Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Plant or repair lawns<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Plant winter-blooming perennials<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune fall- and winter-blooming shrubs and vines after bloom<br />Plant cool-season or winter vegetable seedlings<br />Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables<br /><br /><br />Zone 9<br />Plant for winter color with annuals<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering shrubs<br />Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming<br />Plant bare-root fruit trees<br />Plant citrus<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Repair or plant lawns<br />Rake lawns to remove debris<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br />Plant winter-blooming perennials<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune deciduous trees<br />Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables<br />Protect tender plants from frost<br /><br /><br />Zone 10<br />Set out winter-blooming annuals<br />Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming<br />Plant bare-root fruit trees<br />Plant citrus<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Plant winter-blooming perennials<br />Plant bare-root roses<br />Plant bare-root shrubs and vines<br />Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Plant bare-root trees<br />Sow cool-season or winter vegetable seeds<br /><br /><br />Zone 11<br />Purchase living Christmas tree (but don't bring it indoors until a week -or less- before Christmas)<br />Plan next year's garden<br />Clean and oil garden tools<br />Drain and winterize garden mechanical equipment according to manufacturer's instructions<br />When you bring in the living Christmas tree, keep it away from heating registers<br />Keep gift plants in a cool, light place. Slit foil at bottom of pot to keep roots from drowning.<br /><br />article courtesy of <a href="http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonenov01.html">http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonenov01.html</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-53658259357477638502007-10-23T07:19:00.000-05:002007-10-23T07:26:20.227-05:00Fall Lawn CareFall Lawn Care<br /> <br /><br /><br />By<a href="http://www.ehow.com/members/Willi.html"> Willi Evans Galloway</a><br /><br />Even if you have only a small plot of sod, you still want it to look its best and be free of problems. The cool-season grasses (bluegrasses, perennial ryegrass, and fescues) grown in the northern half of the United States need more care now than warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine). Whichever type of grass you have, there are some steps you should take this fall to ensure a healthy, green lawn next spring.<br /><br />Get a soil test. Assessing your soil health now gives you time to correct nutrient deficiencies and pH problems before spring.<br /><br />Shred the leaves. Fallen leaves can smother a lawn if left in place all winter. Use a mulching mower to shred leaves into vital organic matter that you can leave right on your lawn.<br /><br />Throw off thatch. Compacted soil and too much thatch—an accumulation of undecayed and decaying plant matter at the soil surface—denies grass roots the air, water, and nutrients they need to thrive. (Thatching, by the way, is caused by excess fertilizing, not by mulching grass clippings.) Increasing organic matter will stimulate the soil microbes that consume thatch. If the problem is so bad that water cannot penetrate the thatch, remove the thatch now with a stiff rake or thatching rake.<br /><br />Mow high. Continue to mow grass until it stops actively growing. For the final mowing of the season, cut cool-season grasses to 2½ inches and warm-season grasses between 1½ and 2 inches, which is just a little shorter than you should cut it during the spring and early autumn.<br /><br />No fast food. Fertilize cool-season grasses in fall with a slow-release, organic fertilizer, such asFall Lawns Alive!® Application timing varies among regions, so check with your county extension office for local recommendations. Don't fertilize warm-season grasses in fall.<br /><br />Reseed bare areas. Prevent weedy patches next spring by seeding now. Grass seed grows well in fall because the temperatures are perfect for cool-season grass and because it has less competition from annual weeds. Just be sure to give the lawn enough time to establish itself before winter weather hits. Plant and renovate warm-season grasses in the spring.<br /><br />Article from <a href="http://www.organicgardening.com/feature/0,7518,s1-4-77-1252,00.html?trafficsource=">Organic Gardening .com</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-1442586659850252942007-10-15T19:07:00.000-05:002007-10-15T19:11:14.827-05:00Putting Your Garden to Bed for WinterPutting Your Garden to Bed for Winter<br /><br />With fall here and winter being not far behind, it will soon<br />be time to put your garden to bed for the winter.<br /><br />Houseplants that have been luxuriating outdoors for the<br />summer need to be brought indoors when nighttime<br />temperatures drop below fifty degrees. Many houseplants<br />come from tropical regions and they won't appreciate cooler<br />temperatures. Before bringing them indoors, carefully<br />examine the leaves and the pots for any insects that may try<br />to hitch a ride inside your house. A couple of good douses of<br />insecticidal soap applied a few days before the plants are<br />brought inside will eliminate many pests before they can<br />infest your home.<br /><br />Fall is a good time to plant perennials. Fall-planted<br />perennials should be thinly mulched after planting. More<br />mulch should be added after the ground has frozen to prevent<br />the newly established plants from heaving out of the ground<br />from repeated freezing and thawing. Mark where all of your<br />perennials are planted so you'll know where they are once the<br />foliage has died back at the end of the season.<br /><br />Tender bulbs and tubers such as gladiola and begonias<br />should be dug up after the first light frost and stored over winter<br />in a cool, dark place that won't freeze.<br /><br />Stop fertilizing your trees and flowering shrubs as fall<br />approaches. This will allow the new growth to harden off<br />before winter and will help prevent winter damage to your<br />plants.<br /><br />Clean out all weeds, plant debris and unharvested vegetables<br />from the vegetable garden. Compost can be added to the<br />vegetable garden now, and you might consider planting a cover<br />crop of winter rye, oats or clover. Cover crops help keep<br />weeds down and prevent erosion in the garden. Come spring,<br />the cover crop is tilled in to enrich the soil.<br /><br />Putting the garden to bed can be a sad event for gardeners,<br />but it also reminds us that another glorious season of<br />gardening will be here soon.<br /><br /><br />(personal stuff about Mike and Pam, more added all the time)<br /><a href="http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm">http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm</a><br /><br />Have a great week!<br />-Mike McGroarty<br /><br />P.S. The message board is here:<br /><a href="http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/">http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/<br /><br /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />McGroarty Enterprises Inc.<br />P.O. Box 338<br />Perry, Ohio 44081steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-43644785354853369842007-10-10T21:26:00.000-05:002007-10-10T21:28:56.640-05:00Mulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring DisplayMulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring Display<br /><br />Flower bulbs need a good, long, winters sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested, they get kind of cranky, and then they don’t bloom well at all.<br /><br />Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm, and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And that’s usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then don’t bloom at all, or if they do it’s a very sad display.<br /><br />Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.<br /><br />In the fall just apply a 3-4” layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good, as long as the soil isn’t too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer.<br /><br />A 3-4” layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you don’t want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time.<br /><br />When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again.<br /><br />We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and it’s time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Anytime you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are “well composted”. Fresh material is not good.<br /><br />Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most<br />interesting website, <a href="http://www.freeplants.com/">http://www.freeplants.com</a> and sign up for his<br />excellent gardening newsletter, and grab a FREE copy of his<br />E-book, "Easy Plant Propagation".steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-88526461995594868332007-10-06T22:01:00.000-05:002007-10-06T22:02:55.539-05:00Fall Rose CareFall Rose Care<br />Remember that roses require special care in the fall. In early fall, suspend fertilization. Continuing to fertilize causes new growth that could be killed by winter's cold. After foliage drops, spray with fungicide, then cover plants with a minimum of 8" of loose, well-drained soil, mulch or compost. Prune canes back to 36" to prevent damage from winter winds.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-42477057169545347172007-09-30T20:56:00.000-05:002007-09-30T21:01:42.640-05:00October Gardening To Do ListOctober Gardening To Do List<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Zone 1<br />Finish planting container-grown trees and shrubs<br />Plant needle-bearing evergreens early in the month<br />If the month is dry, repeat the September soaking<br />Check ties on trees, and loosen any that look tight<br />Finish bulb planting early in the month<br />Cover compost to keep it warm and working<br />Observe trees for fall color; jot names of the best in your notebook<br />Dig dahlia roots after tops are frosted<br /><br /><br />Zone 2<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Protect roses for winter<br /><br /><br />Zone 3<br />Start fall compost pile<br />Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Protect roses for winter<br /><br /><br />Zone 4<br />Start fall compost pile<br />Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Buy spring-blooming bulbs<br />Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Protect roses for winter<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped trees<br />Plant trees in containers<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br /><br />Zone 5<br />Start fall compost pile<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees fruit trees<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Plant cool- and warm-season lawns<br />Aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Plant container roses<br />Protect roses for winter<br />Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br /><br />Zone 6<br />Start fall compost pile<br />Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees<br />Plant permanent ground covers<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Plant container roses<br />Protect roses for winter<br />Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant needle-leafed evergreens<br /><br /><br />Zone 7<br />Plant or repair lawns<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter<br />Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped or container fruit trees<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Rake lawn to remove debris<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Plant container roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune fall-flowering shrubs just after bloom<br />Protect tender plants from frost<br />Zone 8<br />Plant for fall and winter color<br />Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees<br />Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees<br />Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)<br />Plant or repair lawns<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials<br />Prune fall-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables<br /><br /><br />Zone 9<br />Plant for fall color with annuals<br />Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Feed and water cacti or succulents that are growing or blooming<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Repair or plant lawns<br />Rake lawns to remove debris<br />Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors<br />Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials<br />Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom<br />Plant or transplant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables<br /><br /><br />Zone 10<br />Plant annuals for fall color<br />Set out fall and winter-blooming plants<br />Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs<br />Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Plant winter-blooming perennials<br />Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom<br />Sow cool-season vegetable seeds<br />Start seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables<br /><br /><br />Zone 11<br />Finish planting spring-blooming bulbs<br />Plant container-grown trees and shrubs<br />Feed and water lawn to encourage overseeded grass<br />Prune back summer- and fall-blooming shrubs<br />Allow rose hips to form; it will encourage early dormancy in bushes<br /><br />article courtesy of <a href="http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneoct01.html">http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneoct01.html</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-66884982571457944352007-09-22T09:37:00.000-05:002007-09-22T09:42:13.529-05:00WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMSWHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS<br /><br />This article is from the Beginners Handbook.<br />Purchase the complete handbook online.<br /><br />When selecting a good location to grow chrysanthemums, a number of things should be considered.<br /><br />SUNSHINE<br /><br />The chrysanthemum does best in full sun. All of us do not always have a location where full sunshine can be provided. In most places, five to six hours will be sufficient to produce a healthy plant. When a choice exists between early morning sun and afternoon sun, select the morning sun. There, early drying will help to avoid mildew and other diseases. This effect is usually helpful to most plants.<br /><br />DRAINAGE<br /><br />Another condition to be considered in site selection is water drainage. Since chrysanthemums require good drainage, a low, level site in which rain collects should be avoided. When higher ground fails to drain well, all is not hopeless. The solution is to construct raised beds. Pressure treated wood, nominal 2 inch by eight inch is most satisfactory and readily available. After the bed is so outlined it should then be filled with suitable soil.<br /><br />NIGHT LIGHTS<br /><br />There are still other conditions which influence the selection of a location for chrysanthemum planting. One undesirable influence is the presence of a street or other light source at night. As will be explained later in more detail, light at night serves to delay the bloom date.<br /><br />ROOT COMPETITION<br /><br />When possible, beds should be located at a sufficient distance from larger plants to avoid extensive root competition. When root competition cannot be avoided, a barrier may be considered. Barriers may be open ditches or underground walls of metal, masonry, or lumber. Walls or barriers eight to twelve inches deep will usually prove to be sufficient.<br /><br />AIR DRAINAGE<br /><br />Finally, consideration should be given to a factor of which few people are aware. This factor is air drainage. Air flows in the same manner as water. Heavier cold air flows downhill while lighter warm air rises. Plants should be located away from walls or obstructions which would hinder air flow. Air movement helps to dry moist foliage and thus reduces development of mildew. Air flow also provides a cooling effect<br /><br />NO YARD AT ALL<br /><br />With limited yard or no yard at all, chrysanthemums can be grown successfully in containers. With containers, the soil can be formulated for good drainage and the containers can be moved to provide maximum sunlight and protection from the elements.<br /><br />article reprinted from the<a href="http://www.mums.org/">National Chrysanthemums Society</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-21909299457285303632007-05-20T11:00:00.000-05:002007-05-20T11:01:38.781-05:00Made in the ShadeMade in the Shade<br /><br />Looking for vegetables that will grow in the shade? Cabbage, celery, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and radishes will grow with as little as four hours of sunlight daily. Expect plants to be lankier because they have to reach for the sun. But they will taste just as good as ones grown in full sun.steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-23335780540305575942007-05-01T20:42:00.000-05:002007-05-01T20:44:40.135-05:00May Gardening To Do ListMay Gardening To Do List<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Zone 1<br /><br />Prune flowering fruit trees while in bloom; use cuttings indoors<br />Complete bare-root planting<br />Amend soil with humus (manure, ground bark, peat moss, leaf mold)<br />Set out summer bedding plants when they become available<br />Set out tomatoes, eggplants when soil warms and danger of frost is over<br />Mow lawns if grass and soil are dry enough<br />Set out plants of cold crops (broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts)<br />Plant peas, Swiss chard, beets, carrots, turnips<br />Feed spring-flowering shrubs after bloom<br />Apply shading to greenhouse<br />Zone 2<br /><br />Set out cool-season annuals<br />Sow seeds of warm-season annuals outdoors<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell<br />Plant permanent ground covers and cool-season lawns<br />Feed cool-season lawns and loosen thatch<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials<br />Plant bare-root and container roses<br />Prune roses (when temperatures are above freezing)<br />Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray<br />Plant bare-root, balled-and-burlapped, and container trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant needle-leafed evergreens<br /><br />Zone 3<br /><br />Set out cool-season annuals<br />Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Plant cool-season lawns and permanent ground covers<br />Feed and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials<br />Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Plant bare-root and container roses<br />Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines before buds swell<br />Plant tender shrubs and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant needle-leafed evergreens<br /><br />Zone 4<br /><br />Set out cool-season annuals<br />Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell<br />Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems<br />Plant permanent ground covers<br />Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Set out herbs<br />Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Plant container roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs and vines<br />Apply dormant spray to shrubs and vines<br />Plant tender shrubs and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant needle-leafed evergreens<br /><br />Zone 5<br />Set out cool-season annuals<br />Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell<br />Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems<br />Plant permanent ground covers<br />Plant cool- and warm-season lawns<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables<br />Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials<br />Sow seeds for tender perennials<br />Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Plant container roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Apply dormant spray to shrubs and vines<br />Plant tender shrubs and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped trees<br />Plant trees in containers<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant needle-leafed evergreens<br /><br /><br />Zone 6<br /><br />Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals<br />Set out summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees<br />Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems<br />Plant permanent ground covers<br />Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch<br />Plant bare-root perennial vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables<br />Sow seeds for tender perennials<br />Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom<br />Plant container roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Plant tender shrubs and vines<br />Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines<br />Plant frost-tolerant trees<br />Plant needle-leafed evergreens<br /><br /><br />Zone 7<br />Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Plant permanent ground covers<br />Plant or repair lawns<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Plant annuals for summer and fall color<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped or container fruit trees<br />Spray dormant fruit trees<br />Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Plant heat-loving perennials<br />Plant container roses<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs, and vines<br />Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom<br />Plant or transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings<br /><br />Zone 8<br />Set out annuals<br />Plant summer-flowering bulbs<br />Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees<br />Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Plant or repair warm-season lawns<br />Plant ornamental grasses<br />Plant fall-blooming perennials<br />Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines<br />Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom<br />Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables<br />Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables<br /><br />Zone 9<br />Plant for summer color<br />Plant fall-flowering bulbs<br />Feed and water cacti or succulents that are blooming or actively growing<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Repair or plant lawns<br />Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom<br />Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables<br />Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings<br /><br />Zone 10<br />Plant annuals for summer color<br />Plant fall-blooming bulbs<br />Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming<br />Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker<br />Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming<br />Plant fall-blooming and hardy perennials<br />Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom<br />Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings<br /><br /><br />Zone 11<br /><br />Install or repair drip irrigation systems<br />Plant beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons<br />Bring out house plants to a shaded, wind-sheltered patio<br />Prune spring-blooming shrubs and vines after bloom<br />Feed and shape rose bushes<br />Make succession plantings of gladiolus<br />Deadhead annuals and perennials for prolonged bloom<br /><br /><a href="http://backyardgardener.com/">article source backyard gardener.com</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-85009238846072147012007-04-24T19:11:00.000-05:002007-04-24T19:13:13.856-05:00How to identify and control insect and disease pests on your landscape plantsHow to identify and control insect and disease pests on your landscape plants.<br /><br />There are a variety of different insects and diseases that can infest your landscape plants and cause a considerable amount of damage. Many of the insects are so small they are are extremely difficult to see with the naked eye, unless you know what you are looking for. I’m going to give you a few helpful hints.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.freeplants.com/insects.htm">Read More</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-59411252223657803862007-04-22T09:15:00.000-05:002007-04-22T09:20:20.330-05:00Earth DayToday is earth day around the world.Here are some links on earth day.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.earthday.net/earthday2007.aspx">http://www.earthday.net/earthday2007.aspx</a><br /><a href="http://www.earthsite.org/">http://www.earthsite.org/</a><br /><a href="http://earthday.envirolink.org/">http://earthday.envirolink.org/</a><br /><a href="http://www.worldwildlife.org/earthday/">http://www.worldwildlife.org/earthday/</a><br /><a href="http://earthday.wilderness.org/">http://earthday.wilderness.org/</a><br /><a href="http://earthday.gov/">http://earthday.gov/</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658490188983057065.post-14852751094676326502007-04-18T18:38:00.000-05:002007-04-18T18:41:03.724-05:00CantaloupeCantaloupe<br /><br />Q. Why do my cantaloupes bloom and bloom but seldom set any fruit?<br /><br /><br />A. Cantaloupes, like other vining crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and watermelons, require pollination for fruit set. This means pollen must be transferred from the male blooms to the female blooms. Although cantaloupes are different than other vining crops because they have flowers which contain male and female parts as well as those which contain only male parts, pollination by bees is still necessary. High temperatures or high fertility can cause the cantaloupe to produce only male blooms which results in poor fruit set. Nematodes can also cause small plants, profusion of blooms and no fruit. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the last killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shredded and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.<br /><br /><br />Q. Are bees necessary for pollination and fruit set in home- grown cantaloupes?<br /><br /><br />A. Although cantaloupes produce some perfect flowers (those that contain male and female parts) which can set fruit without pollen from a male flower, an adequate supply of bees during bloom will insure an abundant cantaloupe harvest. Most problems with fruit set in cantaloupes are caused by a lack of pollinating insects during the blooming period.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. Can cantaloupes cross-pollinate with other crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, squash or pumpkins?<br /><br /><br />A. Crossing between members of the curcurbit family is rare. If crossing occurs, it will not show up in this year's fruit but will be evident if seed is saved from these fruits to plant in next year's garden. Many people rate off-flavored or strange- colored fruit with cross-pollination, but it is usually caused by environmental conditions or disease.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. What is the best way to determine when a cantaloupe is ready for harvest?<br /><br /><br />A. The cantaloupe is ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest cantaloupes before they naturally separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity of cantaloupes is to place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If the stem separates easily, the cantaloupe is ripe.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. Some years my cantaloupe are sweet and tasty and other years they have no flavor at all. What is wrong?<br /><br /><br />A. Cantaloupe flavor depends upon environmental conditions. High rainfall or excessive irrigation as the cantaloupes near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Also, diseases which reduce the vigor of the plant and the leaves' ability to produce sugar will affect fruit flavor. Maintaining the plants in a healthy growing condition and avoiding excessive watering near maturity will improve cantaloupe flavor. Lack of flavor is not caused by cantaloupes crossing with other vine crops, such as cucumbers. Variety of cantaloupe grown affects flavor.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. Can you save seed from this year's crop of cantaloupes for planting in next year's garden?<br /><br /><br />A. Yes, but this is not recommended. Do not save seed from any vine crops because some cross-pollinating can become evident when the seed are planted in next year's garden. If you grow only one variety of cantaloupes and there are no cantaloupes in neighborhood gardens, seed can be saved for next year without producing off-type fruit. If hybrid varieties are used, you should not save seeds for next year's planting.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. What is the difference between a honeydew and cantaloupe?<br /><br /><br />A. Honeydew melons are closely related to cantaloupes but ripen later. Most honeydew melons have white or green flesh and mature within 100 to 120 days after planting. Honeydew melons do not slip from the vine as cantaloupes do and are mature when they become creamy to golden yellow in color and the blossom-end softens slightly.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. The foliage on my cantaloupe is developing yellow spots with a downy growth underneath.<br /><br /><br />A. This is downy mildew and can be controlled with resistant varieties (Top Score, TAM Uvalde, Perlita and PMR 45) and fungicide applications using chlorothalonil.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. The foliage of my cantaloupes is covered by brown, dead spots which fall out giving the foliage a very tattered appearance.<br /><br /><br />A. This disease can be controlled with fungicide applications at 10- to 14-day intervals. Use chlorothalonil.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. The stems near the crown of my cantaloupes are splitting, and an amber-colored ooze is forming around these cuts. Soon after this happens, the plants wilt and die.<br /><br /><br />A. This is gummy stem blight. It is a soil-borne fungal disease that infects and kills young plants. It can be controlled with benomyl sprays applied at the crown of the plants when they are just beginning to form runners. Rotation within the garden will also help prevent this problem.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. After the recent rains, my cantaloupes began to rot. Around the base of the decay there was a white fungal mat.<br /><br /><br />A. This is southern blight. The control for this is mulching between the fruit and the soil. Heavy soils will be more prone to this problem than light, sandy soils. Chemicals do not prevent this. Waterings should be light and quick so the soil does not stay wet for long.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. The roots of my cantaloupe plants are covered with knots and small swellings.<br /><br /><br />A. These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. My cantaloupe leaves look wilted and have a sticky substance all over them. What causes this?<br /><br /><br />A. A wilted appearance and sticky honeydew on melons are characteristics of heavy aphid infestations. Control aphids on cantaloupes with dimethoate, malathion or Thiodan. Use as directed on the label.<br /><br /><br /><br />Q. My cantaloupe leaves have little trails or tunnels all over them. Will this harm my plants?<br /><br />A. These trails are caused by leaf miners. Plants can tolerate very large populations without yield loss.<br /><br />Q. My cantaloupe leaves have a web all over them and some of the leaves are turning yellow and dying.<br /><br /><br />A. The plants are probably infested with spider mites. Check the underside of the leaves for small red mites. Remove and destroy heavily infested plants. Treat light infestations with diazinon or Kelthane. Use as directed on the label. Never use sulfur as an organic control on vine crops.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/web.html">http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/web.html</a>steven wilsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06924922506825526462noreply@blogger.com0