How to identify and control insect and disease pests on your landscape plants.
There are a variety of different insects and diseases that can infest your landscape plants and cause a considerable amount of damage. Many of the insects are so small they are are extremely difficult to see with the naked eye, unless you know what you are looking for. I’m going to give you a few helpful hints.
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Tuesday, April 24, 2007
Sunday, April 22, 2007
Earth Day
Today is earth day around the world.Here are some links on earth day.
http://www.earthday.net/earthday2007.aspx
http://www.earthsite.org/
http://earthday.envirolink.org/
http://www.worldwildlife.org/earthday/
http://earthday.wilderness.org/
http://earthday.gov/
http://www.earthday.net/earthday2007.aspx
http://www.earthsite.org/
http://earthday.envirolink.org/
http://www.worldwildlife.org/earthday/
http://earthday.wilderness.org/
http://earthday.gov/
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
Cantaloupe
Cantaloupe
Q. Why do my cantaloupes bloom and bloom but seldom set any fruit?
A. Cantaloupes, like other vining crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and watermelons, require pollination for fruit set. This means pollen must be transferred from the male blooms to the female blooms. Although cantaloupes are different than other vining crops because they have flowers which contain male and female parts as well as those which contain only male parts, pollination by bees is still necessary. High temperatures or high fertility can cause the cantaloupe to produce only male blooms which results in poor fruit set. Nematodes can also cause small plants, profusion of blooms and no fruit. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the last killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shredded and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.
Q. Are bees necessary for pollination and fruit set in home- grown cantaloupes?
A. Although cantaloupes produce some perfect flowers (those that contain male and female parts) which can set fruit without pollen from a male flower, an adequate supply of bees during bloom will insure an abundant cantaloupe harvest. Most problems with fruit set in cantaloupes are caused by a lack of pollinating insects during the blooming period.
Q. Can cantaloupes cross-pollinate with other crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, squash or pumpkins?
A. Crossing between members of the curcurbit family is rare. If crossing occurs, it will not show up in this year's fruit but will be evident if seed is saved from these fruits to plant in next year's garden. Many people rate off-flavored or strange- colored fruit with cross-pollination, but it is usually caused by environmental conditions or disease.
Q. What is the best way to determine when a cantaloupe is ready for harvest?
A. The cantaloupe is ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest cantaloupes before they naturally separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity of cantaloupes is to place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If the stem separates easily, the cantaloupe is ripe.
Q. Some years my cantaloupe are sweet and tasty and other years they have no flavor at all. What is wrong?
A. Cantaloupe flavor depends upon environmental conditions. High rainfall or excessive irrigation as the cantaloupes near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Also, diseases which reduce the vigor of the plant and the leaves' ability to produce sugar will affect fruit flavor. Maintaining the plants in a healthy growing condition and avoiding excessive watering near maturity will improve cantaloupe flavor. Lack of flavor is not caused by cantaloupes crossing with other vine crops, such as cucumbers. Variety of cantaloupe grown affects flavor.
Q. Can you save seed from this year's crop of cantaloupes for planting in next year's garden?
A. Yes, but this is not recommended. Do not save seed from any vine crops because some cross-pollinating can become evident when the seed are planted in next year's garden. If you grow only one variety of cantaloupes and there are no cantaloupes in neighborhood gardens, seed can be saved for next year without producing off-type fruit. If hybrid varieties are used, you should not save seeds for next year's planting.
Q. What is the difference between a honeydew and cantaloupe?
A. Honeydew melons are closely related to cantaloupes but ripen later. Most honeydew melons have white or green flesh and mature within 100 to 120 days after planting. Honeydew melons do not slip from the vine as cantaloupes do and are mature when they become creamy to golden yellow in color and the blossom-end softens slightly.
Q. The foliage on my cantaloupe is developing yellow spots with a downy growth underneath.
A. This is downy mildew and can be controlled with resistant varieties (Top Score, TAM Uvalde, Perlita and PMR 45) and fungicide applications using chlorothalonil.
Q. The foliage of my cantaloupes is covered by brown, dead spots which fall out giving the foliage a very tattered appearance.
A. This disease can be controlled with fungicide applications at 10- to 14-day intervals. Use chlorothalonil.
Q. The stems near the crown of my cantaloupes are splitting, and an amber-colored ooze is forming around these cuts. Soon after this happens, the plants wilt and die.
A. This is gummy stem blight. It is a soil-borne fungal disease that infects and kills young plants. It can be controlled with benomyl sprays applied at the crown of the plants when they are just beginning to form runners. Rotation within the garden will also help prevent this problem.
Q. After the recent rains, my cantaloupes began to rot. Around the base of the decay there was a white fungal mat.
A. This is southern blight. The control for this is mulching between the fruit and the soil. Heavy soils will be more prone to this problem than light, sandy soils. Chemicals do not prevent this. Waterings should be light and quick so the soil does not stay wet for long.
Q. The roots of my cantaloupe plants are covered with knots and small swellings.
A. These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves look wilted and have a sticky substance all over them. What causes this?
A. A wilted appearance and sticky honeydew on melons are characteristics of heavy aphid infestations. Control aphids on cantaloupes with dimethoate, malathion or Thiodan. Use as directed on the label.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves have little trails or tunnels all over them. Will this harm my plants?
A. These trails are caused by leaf miners. Plants can tolerate very large populations without yield loss.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves have a web all over them and some of the leaves are turning yellow and dying.
A. The plants are probably infested with spider mites. Check the underside of the leaves for small red mites. Remove and destroy heavily infested plants. Treat light infestations with diazinon or Kelthane. Use as directed on the label. Never use sulfur as an organic control on vine crops.
http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/web.html
Q. Why do my cantaloupes bloom and bloom but seldom set any fruit?
A. Cantaloupes, like other vining crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and watermelons, require pollination for fruit set. This means pollen must be transferred from the male blooms to the female blooms. Although cantaloupes are different than other vining crops because they have flowers which contain male and female parts as well as those which contain only male parts, pollination by bees is still necessary. High temperatures or high fertility can cause the cantaloupe to produce only male blooms which results in poor fruit set. Nematodes can also cause small plants, profusion of blooms and no fruit. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the last killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shredded and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.
Q. Are bees necessary for pollination and fruit set in home- grown cantaloupes?
A. Although cantaloupes produce some perfect flowers (those that contain male and female parts) which can set fruit without pollen from a male flower, an adequate supply of bees during bloom will insure an abundant cantaloupe harvest. Most problems with fruit set in cantaloupes are caused by a lack of pollinating insects during the blooming period.
Q. Can cantaloupes cross-pollinate with other crops such as cucumbers, watermelons, squash or pumpkins?
A. Crossing between members of the curcurbit family is rare. If crossing occurs, it will not show up in this year's fruit but will be evident if seed is saved from these fruits to plant in next year's garden. Many people rate off-flavored or strange- colored fruit with cross-pollination, but it is usually caused by environmental conditions or disease.
Q. What is the best way to determine when a cantaloupe is ready for harvest?
A. The cantaloupe is ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest cantaloupes before they naturally separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity of cantaloupes is to place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If the stem separates easily, the cantaloupe is ripe.
Q. Some years my cantaloupe are sweet and tasty and other years they have no flavor at all. What is wrong?
A. Cantaloupe flavor depends upon environmental conditions. High rainfall or excessive irrigation as the cantaloupes near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Also, diseases which reduce the vigor of the plant and the leaves' ability to produce sugar will affect fruit flavor. Maintaining the plants in a healthy growing condition and avoiding excessive watering near maturity will improve cantaloupe flavor. Lack of flavor is not caused by cantaloupes crossing with other vine crops, such as cucumbers. Variety of cantaloupe grown affects flavor.
Q. Can you save seed from this year's crop of cantaloupes for planting in next year's garden?
A. Yes, but this is not recommended. Do not save seed from any vine crops because some cross-pollinating can become evident when the seed are planted in next year's garden. If you grow only one variety of cantaloupes and there are no cantaloupes in neighborhood gardens, seed can be saved for next year without producing off-type fruit. If hybrid varieties are used, you should not save seeds for next year's planting.
Q. What is the difference between a honeydew and cantaloupe?
A. Honeydew melons are closely related to cantaloupes but ripen later. Most honeydew melons have white or green flesh and mature within 100 to 120 days after planting. Honeydew melons do not slip from the vine as cantaloupes do and are mature when they become creamy to golden yellow in color and the blossom-end softens slightly.
Q. The foliage on my cantaloupe is developing yellow spots with a downy growth underneath.
A. This is downy mildew and can be controlled with resistant varieties (Top Score, TAM Uvalde, Perlita and PMR 45) and fungicide applications using chlorothalonil.
Q. The foliage of my cantaloupes is covered by brown, dead spots which fall out giving the foliage a very tattered appearance.
A. This disease can be controlled with fungicide applications at 10- to 14-day intervals. Use chlorothalonil.
Q. The stems near the crown of my cantaloupes are splitting, and an amber-colored ooze is forming around these cuts. Soon after this happens, the plants wilt and die.
A. This is gummy stem blight. It is a soil-borne fungal disease that infects and kills young plants. It can be controlled with benomyl sprays applied at the crown of the plants when they are just beginning to form runners. Rotation within the garden will also help prevent this problem.
Q. After the recent rains, my cantaloupes began to rot. Around the base of the decay there was a white fungal mat.
A. This is southern blight. The control for this is mulching between the fruit and the soil. Heavy soils will be more prone to this problem than light, sandy soils. Chemicals do not prevent this. Waterings should be light and quick so the soil does not stay wet for long.
Q. The roots of my cantaloupe plants are covered with knots and small swellings.
A. These are root knot nematodes. Root knot is a species of nematode which causes galls or swellings on plant roots. It restricts the uptake of nutrients from the root system to the foliage, resulting in a yellow and stunted plant. Root knot lives in the soil and can survive on a number of weed and vegetable crops. It is best controlled by planting a solid stand (close enough for root systems to overlap) of marigolds three months before the first killing frost of fall and/or planting cereal rye (Elbon) for a winter cover crop. Cereal rye should be shred and tilled into the soil 30 days before planting a spring crop.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves look wilted and have a sticky substance all over them. What causes this?
A. A wilted appearance and sticky honeydew on melons are characteristics of heavy aphid infestations. Control aphids on cantaloupes with dimethoate, malathion or Thiodan. Use as directed on the label.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves have little trails or tunnels all over them. Will this harm my plants?
A. These trails are caused by leaf miners. Plants can tolerate very large populations without yield loss.
Q. My cantaloupe leaves have a web all over them and some of the leaves are turning yellow and dying.
A. The plants are probably infested with spider mites. Check the underside of the leaves for small red mites. Remove and destroy heavily infested plants. Treat light infestations with diazinon or Kelthane. Use as directed on the label. Never use sulfur as an organic control on vine crops.
http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/web.html
Saturday, April 14, 2007
Get kids interested in gardening
Get kids interested in gardening
The National Gardening Association has created a great website for parents and especially teachers to help get kids interested in learning about gardening -http://kidsgardening.org. You can find all sorts of projects for kids to do which will help them learn about all aspects of gardening, from composting to collecting seeds.
The National Gardening Association has created a great website for parents and especially teachers to help get kids interested in learning about gardening -http://kidsgardening.org. You can find all sorts of projects for kids to do which will help them learn about all aspects of gardening, from composting to collecting seeds.
Friday, April 13, 2007
Vegetable Gardening Basics
Vegetable Gardening Basics
Creating Your Own Vegetable Garden
There are few things that are as satisfying to a home gardener, than to wander out to the vegetable garden, harvest and consume the fruits of their labor. Successful vegetable gardening involves far more than just popping a few seeds into the ground and waiting for a tomato to appear. Planting is only the third step of the three 'P's. Planning your garden, Preparing the soil, and then... Planting your vegetables!
Read More
Creating Your Own Vegetable Garden
There are few things that are as satisfying to a home gardener, than to wander out to the vegetable garden, harvest and consume the fruits of their labor. Successful vegetable gardening involves far more than just popping a few seeds into the ground and waiting for a tomato to appear. Planting is only the third step of the three 'P's. Planning your garden, Preparing the soil, and then... Planting your vegetables!
Read More
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
A Funny Post From GardeningTips,and Ideas Blog
Gardeningtipsnideas.com has a funny post titled Hilliary Clinton Garden Tips you can read it here.
http://www.gardeningtipsnideas.com/
http://www.gardeningtipsnideas.com/
Saturday, April 7, 2007
Growing Onions
GROWING ONIONS
Beth Jarvis
Onions, as members of the allium family, are cousins of garlic, chives, leeks and shallots. They're mostly biennials, growing vegetatively the first year then blooming the second.
There are a few perennial onions. You'll find them in catalogs under potato/multiplier onions or Egyptian walking onions. The potato/multiplier onion increase by producing new bulbs in a clump. The walking onions send up a flower stalk that sets numerous marble-sized bulbs at the top. When the weight of the bulb cluster becomes too great, the flower stalk collapses and the little bulbs take root where they land, hence they "walk". These onions are perhaps best used for green onions.
Starting onions:
Onions can be started three way: sets, direct seeding and transplanting. Though planting onion sets is the most popular way to grow them, you'll have better results transplanting seedlings you start indoors ahead of time.
Sets:
Sets are onions that were planted from seed last year. Sets for white, yellow and sometimes red onions are available from mail order catalogs and even some grocery stores. You can raise your own sets but you'll need to direct seed them in the garden by July so they can grow big enough to harvest and store in fall.
Buy onion sets that are firm and marble size but have not sprouted. Big sets may split into two bulbs or produce a flower stalk very early. (When an onion sends up a flower stalk, pull the onion and use it; it will not continue to grow larger nor will it store well.) Sort sets into those large than a dime and those smaller. Plant the larger sets for green onions and plant the smaller ones with adequate spacing: they'll produce bigger onions.
Because sets tolerate light frost, you can plant them outside when temperatures reach 48 degrees, around the middle of April in the Twin Cities. Plant onion sets, pointy end up, 1½ to 2" below soil. If you're planting big sets for green onions, space them close, almost touching. If you're planting them for full size onions, space them 3 to 4" apart. Firm the soil around the bulbs. Choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Sun all day is even better.
If you want to raise a winter's worth of onions, you'll need to plant onions from seedlings in addition to onions from sets, as onions from sets don't store as long as the others.
Transplants:
Raising your own seedlings for transplants gives you a jump on spring in late winter, more choices of varieties to raise, plus it's less expensive than purchasing transplants. Transplants are available through mail order and some garden centers. Regardless of the source, transplants will give you bigger onions by fall. Onions need to be planted indoors 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting outside, so plant the seeds in February to transplant onion seedlings outside in May. Buy only as much seed as you will use this year. Onion seeds don't remain viable for much over a year.
The most important thing to remember when buying onion seed is day length, especially if you're ordering from a national mail order firm. In Minnesota, we need to buy "long day" onion seeds because our summer days can be 16 hours long.
In the south, day length varies less and averages about 12 hours of light per day. Onions for southern gardeners are "short day" onions. You can raise short day onions in Minnesota but they will bulb as soon as day length reaches 12 hours and you'll get small onions.
Long day varieties start to bulb when day lengths are about 14-16 hours. If you start onion seeds indoors, keep lights on only 12 hours each day to give the plants a suitable night. Onion seedlings will form bulbs too early if exposed to long days at any time during their development. You will not get anything bigger than sets.
Plant onion seeds ¼-½" deep in a sterile seed-starting media. They can be planted 3 to a cell in recycled four or six packs or sow thickly in rows if you plant in a deep (4" to 6") flat or other container. Keep tops trimmed 3-4" tall. Water regularly to maintain adequate soil moisture.
Onion seedlings need to be hardened off before transplanting outside, after danger of frost has passed. Expose young plants to outdoor conditions gradually, over a two week period.
Plant seedlings 4" apart and just deeply enough to catch in the soil. When mature, they'll appear to sit on top of the soil.
Once outdoors, keep onions well watered, about an inch a week. Watering is critical when the bulbs start to swell. Water stress produces stronger flavored bulbs. Add fertilizer, based on a soil test, at planting, then again when leaves are 6" tall and lastly when bulbs are starting to swell.
Direct seeding:
If you want to plant onion seeds directly in the garden, you'll probably be most successful with green onions (also called scallions). Our short season makes success less likely when direct-seeding bulb-type onions.
Plant onion seeds in a sunny location where soil drains well. Cover the seeds with ½" of soil and water them regularly. Harvest when the white portion is pencil thick.
Harvest:
Onions are edible at any stage. Immature bulb-forming onions can be thinned from the garden and eaten.
Onions are ripe when ¼ to ½ of the tops have fallen over and bulbs have developed a papery skin. (For storage onions, 50% or more to the tops should have fallen over.) Gently push down the other plants, taking care to not break the stalks. Leave the onions in the ground for several days then pull them and let them cure in a warm, airy place out of the elements for a week or two.
When properly dried for storage, onions will have a dry, shrunken neck and dry outer skin. When storage onions are dry, braid their tops together or hang them in mesh bags or old nylons, and store them in a cool, dry site.
Mature, cured onions are physiologically dormant. The length of dormancy depends on what cultivar you've planted. Cool storage will prolong dormancy. The recommended storage temperature is 32 degrees. Do not let them freeze. Onions will start to sprout at temperatures over 40 degrees.
There is absolutely no truth to the story that potatoes and onions should not be stored together because one makes the other sprout. The truth is, they have different storage temperature requirements. The optimal storage temperature for potatoes is 40 degrees, the temperature at which onions sprout.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h247onion.html
Beth Jarvis
Onions, as members of the allium family, are cousins of garlic, chives, leeks and shallots. They're mostly biennials, growing vegetatively the first year then blooming the second.
There are a few perennial onions. You'll find them in catalogs under potato/multiplier onions or Egyptian walking onions. The potato/multiplier onion increase by producing new bulbs in a clump. The walking onions send up a flower stalk that sets numerous marble-sized bulbs at the top. When the weight of the bulb cluster becomes too great, the flower stalk collapses and the little bulbs take root where they land, hence they "walk". These onions are perhaps best used for green onions.
Starting onions:
Onions can be started three way: sets, direct seeding and transplanting. Though planting onion sets is the most popular way to grow them, you'll have better results transplanting seedlings you start indoors ahead of time.
Sets:
Sets are onions that were planted from seed last year. Sets for white, yellow and sometimes red onions are available from mail order catalogs and even some grocery stores. You can raise your own sets but you'll need to direct seed them in the garden by July so they can grow big enough to harvest and store in fall.
Buy onion sets that are firm and marble size but have not sprouted. Big sets may split into two bulbs or produce a flower stalk very early. (When an onion sends up a flower stalk, pull the onion and use it; it will not continue to grow larger nor will it store well.) Sort sets into those large than a dime and those smaller. Plant the larger sets for green onions and plant the smaller ones with adequate spacing: they'll produce bigger onions.
Because sets tolerate light frost, you can plant them outside when temperatures reach 48 degrees, around the middle of April in the Twin Cities. Plant onion sets, pointy end up, 1½ to 2" below soil. If you're planting big sets for green onions, space them close, almost touching. If you're planting them for full size onions, space them 3 to 4" apart. Firm the soil around the bulbs. Choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Sun all day is even better.
If you want to raise a winter's worth of onions, you'll need to plant onions from seedlings in addition to onions from sets, as onions from sets don't store as long as the others.
Transplants:
Raising your own seedlings for transplants gives you a jump on spring in late winter, more choices of varieties to raise, plus it's less expensive than purchasing transplants. Transplants are available through mail order and some garden centers. Regardless of the source, transplants will give you bigger onions by fall. Onions need to be planted indoors 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting outside, so plant the seeds in February to transplant onion seedlings outside in May. Buy only as much seed as you will use this year. Onion seeds don't remain viable for much over a year.
The most important thing to remember when buying onion seed is day length, especially if you're ordering from a national mail order firm. In Minnesota, we need to buy "long day" onion seeds because our summer days can be 16 hours long.
In the south, day length varies less and averages about 12 hours of light per day. Onions for southern gardeners are "short day" onions. You can raise short day onions in Minnesota but they will bulb as soon as day length reaches 12 hours and you'll get small onions.
Long day varieties start to bulb when day lengths are about 14-16 hours. If you start onion seeds indoors, keep lights on only 12 hours each day to give the plants a suitable night. Onion seedlings will form bulbs too early if exposed to long days at any time during their development. You will not get anything bigger than sets.
Plant onion seeds ¼-½" deep in a sterile seed-starting media. They can be planted 3 to a cell in recycled four or six packs or sow thickly in rows if you plant in a deep (4" to 6") flat or other container. Keep tops trimmed 3-4" tall. Water regularly to maintain adequate soil moisture.
Onion seedlings need to be hardened off before transplanting outside, after danger of frost has passed. Expose young plants to outdoor conditions gradually, over a two week period.
Plant seedlings 4" apart and just deeply enough to catch in the soil. When mature, they'll appear to sit on top of the soil.
Once outdoors, keep onions well watered, about an inch a week. Watering is critical when the bulbs start to swell. Water stress produces stronger flavored bulbs. Add fertilizer, based on a soil test, at planting, then again when leaves are 6" tall and lastly when bulbs are starting to swell.
Direct seeding:
If you want to plant onion seeds directly in the garden, you'll probably be most successful with green onions (also called scallions). Our short season makes success less likely when direct-seeding bulb-type onions.
Plant onion seeds in a sunny location where soil drains well. Cover the seeds with ½" of soil and water them regularly. Harvest when the white portion is pencil thick.
Harvest:
Onions are edible at any stage. Immature bulb-forming onions can be thinned from the garden and eaten.
Onions are ripe when ¼ to ½ of the tops have fallen over and bulbs have developed a papery skin. (For storage onions, 50% or more to the tops should have fallen over.) Gently push down the other plants, taking care to not break the stalks. Leave the onions in the ground for several days then pull them and let them cure in a warm, airy place out of the elements for a week or two.
When properly dried for storage, onions will have a dry, shrunken neck and dry outer skin. When storage onions are dry, braid their tops together or hang them in mesh bags or old nylons, and store them in a cool, dry site.
Mature, cured onions are physiologically dormant. The length of dormancy depends on what cultivar you've planted. Cool storage will prolong dormancy. The recommended storage temperature is 32 degrees. Do not let them freeze. Onions will start to sprout at temperatures over 40 degrees.
There is absolutely no truth to the story that potatoes and onions should not be stored together because one makes the other sprout. The truth is, they have different storage temperature requirements. The optimal storage temperature for potatoes is 40 degrees, the temperature at which onions sprout.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h247onion.html
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
April Gardening To Do List
April Gardening To Do List
Zone 1
Finish planting bare-root trees, shrubs, roses
Prune roses, then apply dormant spray
Apply dormant spray to trees and shrubs before they leaf out
Spade or till garden beds as soon as the soil is workable
Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Feed evergreens, fruit tres, ahrubs, and lawns
Sow seeds of cool-season vegetables
Sow seeds of hardy perennials outdoors after heavy freezes have passed
Order summer-flowering bulbs (canna, calla, dahlia, gladiolus, elephant ear)
Zone 2
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom
Feed cool-season lawns
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Prune roses (when temperatures are above freezing)
Zone 3
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Zone 4
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens
Zone 5
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens
Zone 6
Set out cool-season annuals
Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens
Zone 7
Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant bare-root and container roses
Plant or transplant warm-season annuals
Plant fruit trees
Spray dormant fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant heat-loving perennials
Uncover roses and apply dormant spray
Plant ornamental and evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Plant vegetable seedlings
Zone 8
Set out annuals
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant fall-blooming perennials
Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Prune flowering fruit trees during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables
Zone 9
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Plant fall-flowering bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are blooming or actively growing
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Prune deciduous and frost-sensitive fruit trees (when temperatures are above freezing)
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Plant tender and heat-loving perennials
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings
Zone 10
Plant annuals for summer color
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings
Zone 11
Sow seeds of summer annuals outdoors or indoors
Feed and water cacti and succulents as they start growth
Set out peppers, tomatoes, eggplant
Set out plants of summer annuals
Feed and water lawns as growth accelerates
Feed and groom house plants as growth recommences
Plant gladiolus and dahlias
Divide overgrown fall-blooming perennial clumps
Clear away scrub growth for fire protection
Cut back gift chrysanthemums and transplant to garden. Break into individual plants
information taken from http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneapr01.html
Zone 1
Finish planting bare-root trees, shrubs, roses
Prune roses, then apply dormant spray
Apply dormant spray to trees and shrubs before they leaf out
Spade or till garden beds as soon as the soil is workable
Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Feed evergreens, fruit tres, ahrubs, and lawns
Sow seeds of cool-season vegetables
Sow seeds of hardy perennials outdoors after heavy freezes have passed
Order summer-flowering bulbs (canna, calla, dahlia, gladiolus, elephant ear)
Zone 2
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom
Feed cool-season lawns
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Prune roses (when temperatures are above freezing)
Zone 3
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Zone 4
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens
Zone 5
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens
Zone 6
Set out cool-season annuals
Set out seedlings of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Divide and replant crowded winter- and spring-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Divide and replant spring-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container and bare-root roses
Uncover roses for spring and apply dormant spray
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant tender shrubs and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens
Zone 7
Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant bare-root and container roses
Plant or transplant warm-season annuals
Plant fruit trees
Spray dormant fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant heat-loving perennials
Uncover roses and apply dormant spray
Plant ornamental and evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Plant vegetable seedlings
Zone 8
Set out annuals
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant fall-blooming perennials
Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Prune flowering fruit trees during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables
Zone 9
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Plant fall-flowering bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are blooming or actively growing
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Prune deciduous and frost-sensitive fruit trees (when temperatures are above freezing)
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Plant tender and heat-loving perennials
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings
Zone 10
Plant annuals for summer color
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Transplant warm-season vegetable seedlings
Zone 11
Sow seeds of summer annuals outdoors or indoors
Feed and water cacti and succulents as they start growth
Set out peppers, tomatoes, eggplant
Set out plants of summer annuals
Feed and water lawns as growth accelerates
Feed and groom house plants as growth recommences
Plant gladiolus and dahlias
Divide overgrown fall-blooming perennial clumps
Clear away scrub growth for fire protection
Cut back gift chrysanthemums and transplant to garden. Break into individual plants
information taken from http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneapr01.html
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