March Gardening To Do List

Zone 1

Order indoor seed starting kits and seeds
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Water indoor cymbidium orchids weekly until they bloom
Sow seeds indoors for tender perennials and annuals
Clean, oil and sharpen tools
Zone 2

Order seeds and seed starting systems
Sow seeds indoors or cold frame
Remove mulch from early bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Clean, oil and sharpen tools
Order or construct a cold frame for starting vegetables outdoors

Zone 3

Order seeds
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants
Remove mulch from early bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors

Zone 4

Plant bare root trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors


Zone 5

Plant dormant, hardy container and balled and burlapped plants
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Remove winter mulch, lightly cultivate soil if thawed
Prune out winter damage
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees
Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials indoors
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune winter-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables (asparagus, rhubarb etc.)
Plant seedlings of cool-season vegetables
Sow seeds for cool- and warm-season vegetables
Protect tender plants from frost


Zone 6

Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Prune out winter damage
Feed cool-season lawns
Remove winter mulch, lightly cultivate soil if thawed
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root and container roses
Prune roses (when temperatures remain above freezing)


Zone 7

Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens
Zone 8

Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant summer- and fall-flowering bulbs
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant permanent ground covers
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant bare-root and container roses
Plant or transplant warm-season annuals
Plant fruit trees
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant heat-loving perennials
Plant ornamental and evergreen trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune spring-flowering or tender shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Plant warm-seasoned vegetable seedlings

Zone 9

Set out warm season annuals
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Plant container fruit trees
Prune fruit trees after bloom and fruit setting
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Repair or plant lawns with warm season grasses (Bermuda, St. Augustine etc.)
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant fall-blooming perennials
Prune tender deciduous shrubs and vines
Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines during or just after bloom
Prune flowering fruit trees during or just after bloom
Sow seeds for warm-season vegetables
Plant seedlings of warm-season vegetables

Zone 10

Get ahead of the bugs by hand-picking or spraying with organic preparations
Fertilize oleander, Bauhinia, hibiscus and citrus while in bloom with a low-nitrogen plant food
Mulch with at least two inches of decomposed hardwood material such as pine bark, pine needles, or cypress bark to conserve moisture in flower and vegetable beds
Plant avocados, papaya, breadfruit and mango, tababuia and tibuchina trees
Plant seed, seedlings, or rooted starts of herbs and vegetables such as peppers, okra, cantaloupe, watermelons, peanuts, sweet potatoes, luffa, chayote, lemon grass and mint
In drought-prone areas, install simple drip-irrigation systems to take care of summer watering needs


Zone 11

Get ahead of the bugs by hand-picking or spraying with organic preparations
Fertilize oleander, Bauhinia, hibiscus and citrus while in bloom with a low-nitrogen plant food
Mulch with at least two inches of decomposed hardwood material such as pine bark, pine needles, or cypress bark to conserve moisture in flower and vegetable beds
Plant avocados, papaya, breadfruit and mango, tababuia and tibuchina trees
Plant seed, seedlings, or rooted starts of herbs and vegetables such as peppers, okra, cantaloupe, watermelons, peanuts, sweet potatoes, luffa, chayote, lemon grass and mint
In drought-prone areas, install simple drip-irrigation systems to take care of summer watering needs.


article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonemar01.html

Q&A: Plants For Beginner Gardeners

Wondering what kind of plants to plant with your kids?Here is a great article on simple plants
that one can grow with their children from ArcaMax.com titled Plants For Beginner Gardeners.

Question: What can I plant with my 5-year-old that is easy to grow and low-maintenance?

Answer: Choose things that are quick to germinate and grow or that have sensory delights for children. Radishes germinate easily, mature quickly (about 20 to 25 days), and kids seem to love to pull them out of the ground. There's an 'Easter Egg' blend with round radishes in an assortment of colors. Sweet peas are extremely fragrant and pretty. (Soak the seeds in water overnight for easier germination.) Sunflowers and hollyhocks are magical. You might want to use some transplants also.

Try bedding plants such as lamb's ears (which are soft and wooly), pansies, and Johnny jump-ups (their little faces are fun). Chocolate mint is an easy-to-grow herb. In fact, all mints are so easy to grow and invasive that they are best planted in containers submerged in the garden (unless you want them to take over). Marigolds and cherry tomatoes are other good choices.

Grow Yourself a Grapevine!

Here is another great how-to article from my good friend Mike McGroarty on grapevines.
Grow Yourself a Grapevine!

Most grapes are really easy to propagate, and middle
of the winter is an ideal to do it.

1. Cut some vines from the parent plant. You can cut
these vines as long as you want, I've worked with vines
12' long.

2. Cut the vines into cuttings. Start at the thick end of
the vine. (the bottom or butt end). Notice the bumps on
the vine. Those are bud unions, and on grapes they can
be as far apart as 6 inches. Make a cut right below, but
not into a bud union. Then skip a bud union, then make
a cut right above the next bud union. The second cut can
be as much as one inch above the top bud union. Each
cutting should have three buds. Top, bottom and middle.

3. Remove any side branches (curly cues) from your cutting.

4. Take your finished cuttings out to the garden, dig a
trench about 8 inches deep and place your cuttings in the
trench, leaving the top bud sticking out of the ground about 2".
Pack loose soil around your cuttings.

5. That's it you're done! If you have some rooting compound
for hardwood cuttings you can dip the cuttings in rooting
compound before placing them in the trench, but you really
don't need it. They'll root without it.

6. Water them as needed when it's dry, but don't keep them
soaking wet.

7. Some grapes are typically grafted, but you can still try
rooting them this way, it might work. Concord, Niagara and
Catawba for sure can be rooted this way.


(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm
Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/

Janurary Garden to do List

January Gardening To Do List




Zone 1
Order seed and nursery catalogues
Check dahlia and canna roots for plumpness, freedom from mold
Check house plants for mites, mealybugs, and scale
Cut back on feeding house plants
Protect bases of fruit tree trunks against rodent damage with wire mesh
Plant living Christmas trees if ground is workable
Clean and oil garden tools
Plan flower and vegetable beds

Zone 2
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom

Zone 3
Order seeds
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Water cymbidiums weekly until they bloom


Zone 4
Order seeds
Sow seeds indoors for hardy spring-blooming plants
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)

Zone 5
Order seeds
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors

Zone 6
Order seeds
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming plants
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Sow seeds for cool-weather vegetables
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors


Zone 7
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals
Set out summer-flowering bulbs
Plant fall-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees before buds swell
Spray apples, peaches, and pears that have been affected with canker problems
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-weather vegetables
Sow fast-growing warm-season vegetables
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Sow seeds for tender perennials
Plant container and bare-root roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped, container, and bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant conifers and broad-leaf evergreens

Zone 8
Order seeds
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming annuals
Plant fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Move living Christmas trees outdoors
Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Apply dormant spray to bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune winter-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season vegetables
Protect tender plants from frost


Zone 9
Order seeds
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming annuals
Sow seeds of warm-season annuals indoors
Plant summer-flowering bulbs
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Plant bare-root fruit trees
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees
Plant citrus
Move living Christmas tree outdoors
Sow frost-tolerant perennial seeds indoors
Plant or transplant frost-tolerant perennial seedlings outdoors
Plant bare-root roses
Apply dormant spray to roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Apply dormant spray to trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant bare-root perennial vegetables
Plant seedlings of cool-season and winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season and winter vegetables
Protect tender plants from frost


Zone 10
Order seeds
Set out cool-season annuals
Sow seeds for hardy spring-blooming annuals
Plant winter-, spring-, and summer-blooming bulbs
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Plant bare-root fruit trees
Prune flowering fruit trees while in bloom
Spray for peach leaf curl, peach leaf blight, and canker
Plant citrus
Protect citrus from frost damage
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Move living Christmas trees outdoors
Plant bare-root roses
Apply dormant spray to roses
Plant bare-root shrubs and vines
Apply dormant sprays to trees, shrubs and vines
Prune evergreen shrubs
Prune winter-flowering shrubs and vines
Plant bare-root trees
Sow cool-season vegetable seeds
Plant or transplant cool-season vegetable seedlings
Sow warm-season vegetable seeds


Zone 11
.Order seeds and plants from catalogues.
Sow seeds of hardy annuals outdoors (larkspur, bachelor's button, poppy)
Set out plants of early-spring blooming perennials (primrose, calendula, viola, pansy)
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, vegetables
Check house plants for mites, mealybugs
Prune fruit trees if you have not previously done so
Apply dormant spray to fruit trees, roses

article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonejan01.html






 






 

Caring for Poinsettias and Making Them Re bloom

Here is another great article by my good friend Mike I would like to share.

Caring for Poinsettias and Making Them Re bloom


Poinsettias, a bright and cheerful symbol of the holiday
season, are often thought of as "throwaway" plants to be
set on the curb when their red blooms fade. Rather than
buying a new plant each December, with proper care you can
keep your poinsettias blooming for another holiday season.

Poinsettia plants enjoy indirect sunlight for at least six
hours each day while they are blooming. They prefer to be
slightly on the dry side and will not be happy if they are
overwatered. While the plant is flowering it should not be
fertilized, but after the plant has finished blooming an all-
purpose fertilizer may be applied..

To enjoy your poinsettia blooms for another holiday season,
it should be cut back to about 8 inches in late March or early
April. It can be fertilized about once a month, and by late
May new growth will begin to appear.

Once there is no more danger of frost and nighttime temperatures
stay above 55 degrees F, your poinsettia may be kept outdoors
for the summer. Fertilizing can be done every 2-3 weeks during
the summer, and the plant can be pruned to keep it full and
compact. In warm climates a poinsettia may be planted directly
in the garden but in cooler climates it is best to transplant
your poinsettia into a pot that is just slightly larger than
its original pot. This can be done in early June. Be sure to
use a well-draining potting soil.

As temperatures begin to cool in late summer, the plant should
again be brought indoors. Longer nights will cause poinsettias
to set buds and produce flowers during November or December.
To encourage your poinsettia to bloom for the Christmas holiday,
you must carefully control the amount of light the plant receives.

To bloom for Christmas, the plant must be kept in total darkness
for 14 hours each night during October, November and early
December, along with 6-8 hours of bright sunlight. This can be
accomplished by moving the poinsettia to a dark closet each
night, making sure that no light sneaks beneath the door. Or
simply cover the plant with a large box each night. No peeking!
Any stray light will upset the schedule.

During October, November and early December the plant needs 6-8
hours of bright sunlight along with 14 hours of total darkness.
The ideal temperature for your poinsettia is between 60 and 70
degrees. Warmer or cooler temperatures can also delay flowering.
Continue fertilizing monthly until the blossoms appear.

Follow this schedule of daylight and darkness for 8-10 weeks and
your poinsettia will reward you with a colorful holiday display!


(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/




McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081

Composting Methods

Here at Granny's garden we are big on the use of composting for beneficial use's in our garden.
There are many benefits to using compost in the garden that range from Biological Benefits to
Chemical Benefits.

There is a wonderful article on the different ways of composting methods over at the University of Illinois Extension titled Composting for the Homeowner it explains the different methods of composting.This is a great 
read for anyone interested in the subject of composting.I recommend you give it a look.
Composting Methods

Growing and Caring for Amaryllis Indoors

Growing and Caring for Amaryllis Indoors
Here is anothet great article by my good friend Mike I thought you might enjoy.

Amaryllis bulbs are often given as gifts for the holidays,
later producing spectacular flowers to brighten the
recipient's home or office. Amaryllis bulbs can be found
in many stores in December, or in mail-order catalogs.
The bulbs are sold separately or already planted in pots.

If you're purchasing unpotted bulbs, choose those that are
large and feel solid. The largest bulbs will produce two
or more flower stalks and larger blooms. Select a pot for
the bulb that is an inch or two wider than the diameter of
the bulb, and plant the bulb in well-draining potting soil
that does not include pine bark. A mix of equal amounts of
perlite and peat can also be used for potting amaryllis bulbs.
The upper half to third of the bulb should remain above the
soil surface.

Once planted, water the pot well and place it in a location
where the temperature is 70-75 degrees. Some sources say
that the bulb should not be watered again until the bulb
sprouts. Once it sprouts, the soil should be kept moist but
not soggy.

After the bulb sprouts, move the plant to a sunny window and
give it a half-strength dose of fertilizer once or twice monthly.
Turn the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing straight.
The stalk may need to be staked if it tends to lean.

Once the flowers appear, move the plant to an area with cooler
temperatures and indirect light. Cooler temperatures will prolong
the life of the blossoms.

When the flowers fade, cut off the flower stalks about an inch
above the bulb. Remove any dead foliage but leave the green
foliage on the plant so they can help the plant store energy.

Amaryllis bulbs will produce flowers year after year if treated
correctly. After the plant has finished blooming, move it back
to a sunny window and give it water when the soil surface is dry.
Continue fertilizing once or twice monthly until outdoor
temperatures stay well above freezing, generally in May.
Gradually expose the plant to outdoor temperatures and sunlight
for several days, then plant pot and all in a spot where it will
receive partial to full sun.

Bring the plant back indoors in mid-September and place it in a
cool, somewhat dark location such as an unheated garage or
basement to induce dormancy, and stop watering the plant.
Remove the leaves as they become brown, and keep the bulb at
a temperature of 50-55 degrees for 8-10 weeks. After this time the
plant can be moved back to its sunny window and watered well.
New growth will soon appear, followed by another round of lovely
blossoms.

(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/

Linky Love Train

Get aboard the Linky Love train. Chris from the The Dog Log blog invited me to join her on a new linky love train. I've never been on board one before, so I'm definitely game for it. Plus this is such an easy tag, how can I not join in the fun?

The rules: when you get tagged, you have to add your name below the person who tagged you and by doing so you are letting the list grow.

Limadang.com
RamblingMoo.com
blogginginmypyjamas
StylewithPassion
Chinneeq
dorazooropazoo
Babyshern
HiPnCooLMoMMa
Rachel’s Soulful Thoughts
When Silence Speaks
Dancing in Midlife Tune
Underneath it All
I am Dzoi
Hobbies and Such
moms…..check nyo
Choc Mint Girl
Amel’s Realm
My Thoughts
Rusin Roundup
Juliana’s Site
Max
Rooms of My Heart
Mariuca
Colin aka cotojo
A Great Pleasure
MondayMorningPower
The dog log
Granny Gruners Garden

I would like to tag my good friend Waliz from the Waliz Diary

Caring for a Live (Balled) Christmas Tree

Here is a great article on Caring for a Live (Balled) Christmas Tree by my good friend Mike.

Live Christmas trees (balled in burlap) are great
because you can enjoy them for Christmas, then enjoy
them in your yard for 20 or 30 years or more. But you
must know how to care for them and how to plant them
in your yard.

1. Keep your live tree in the house for as short a period
of time as possible. Try to keep it in inside for no more
than three weeks.

2. Keep the root ball watered well, they dry out quickly.
But don't water it so much that it's soggy or submerged in
water.

3. Dig a hole in your yard the size of the root ball BEFORE
you move the tree inside. That way as soon as Christmas
is over you can get the tree planted even if the ground is
frozen Do not dig the hole too deep. Once in the hole the
top of the ball should be at least 1" above ground. Then
mound soil over the root ball so the burlap is not exposed.

4. Keep enough loose soil in your garage in a wheelbarrow
to cover the root ball after planting. The ground might be
frozen after Christmas.

5. Don't store your tree in the garage after Christmas. It will
be much happier in the ground, even if it's really cold outside.

6. Do not fertilize your tree. Come spring you can fertilize
with an organic fertilizer. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer.

7. Enjoy your live Christmas tree for many years to come.

(more personal stuff about Mike and Pam)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/




McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081

Window Sill Herb Garden

Ever thought of planting a window sill herb garden to get you over those winter blues?
It would be nice to have some fresh herbs growing in the kitchen window sill this winter
to help take away those winter blues plus you could get some health benefits at the same time.

Most herbs will get by on at least 6 hours of sunlight a day.So if you have a sunny window sill then
you are in business.Basil, chives, sweet marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme are especially well suited to growing in windowsill gardens.

So get out your potting mix, container,and get started today.

Mulch Fall-Planted Bulbs

Remember those fall planted spring flowering bulbs you recently planted?
They will need a little protection this winter for spring beauty.

To protect fall planted, spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips for winter mulch them after a few hard freezes with a 2 to 3 inch thick layer of shredded bark.

This should help you to have a beautiful spring garden.

Happy Thanksgiving

Myspace Graphics at WishAFriend.com

All of us here at Granny Gruners Garden would like to wish you a wonderful,and safe Thanksgiving.

Winter is Coming/Something to Think About

Make sure all of your garden hoses are disconnected
from the faucets. Today most homes are equipped with
"frost free" hose bibs that are not supposed to freeze.
But what most people don't realize is that unless you
disconnect the hose from the faucet the water inside of
the faucet can not drain and they can and will freeze and
break inside the wall. Simply disconnect the hose so the
water inside the faucet can run out.

If you live in the south you need not worry. In the north pipes do freeze
and bust wide open if we don't take precautions. It just
adds to ambience of living in the north.

November Garden To Do List

November Gardening To Do List




Zone 1
Thin dense-growing trees to avoid wind damage
Apply mulch around plants after ground freezes
Cut back chrysanthemums after bloom; mulch heavily or dig and store in basement or garage
Set up burlap screens on windward sides of choice shrubs
Prune deciduous trees and roses after leaves have fallen

Zone 2
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)


Zone 3
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)


Zone 4
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter

Zone 5
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter

Zone 6
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 7
Plant ornamental trees
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Rake lawn to remove debris
Protect roses for the winter
Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs during or just after bloom
Prune hardy deciduous and evergreen shrubs and vines
Protect tender plants from frost
Zone 8
Lightly cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune fall- and winter-blooming shrubs and vines after bloom
Plant cool-season or winter vegetable seedlings
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 9
Plant for winter color with annuals
Plant winter- and spring-flowering shrubs
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Plant bare-root fruit trees
Plant citrus
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Repair or plant lawns
Rake lawns to remove debris
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune deciduous trees
Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables
Protect tender plants from frost


Zone 10
Set out winter-blooming annuals
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Repot cacti and succulents, if essential, once they have finished blooming
Plant bare-root fruit trees
Plant citrus
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Plant bare-root roses
Plant bare-root shrubs and vines
Prune fall- and winter-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant bare-root trees
Sow cool-season or winter vegetable seeds


Zone 11
Purchase living Christmas tree (but don't bring it indoors until a week -or less- before Christmas)
Plan next year's garden
Clean and oil garden tools
Drain and winterize garden mechanical equipment according to manufacturer's instructions
When you bring in the living Christmas tree, keep it away from heating registers
Keep gift plants in a cool, light place. Slit foil at bottom of pot to keep roots from drowning.

article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zonenov01.html





 

Fall Lawn Care

Fall Lawn Care



By Willi Evans Galloway

Even if you have only a small plot of sod, you still want it to look its best and be free of problems. The cool-season grasses (bluegrasses, perennial ryegrass, and fescues) grown in the northern half of the United States need more care now than warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine). Whichever type of grass you have, there are some steps you should take this fall to ensure a healthy, green lawn next spring.

Get a soil test. Assessing your soil health now gives you time to correct nutrient deficiencies and pH problems before spring.

Shred the leaves. Fallen leaves can smother a lawn if left in place all winter. Use a mulching mower to shred leaves into vital organic matter that you can leave right on your lawn.

Throw off thatch. Compacted soil and too much thatch—an accumulation of undecayed and decaying plant matter at the soil surface—denies grass roots the air, water, and nutrients they need to thrive. (Thatching, by the way, is caused by excess fertilizing, not by mulching grass clippings.) Increasing organic matter will stimulate the soil microbes that consume thatch. If the problem is so bad that water cannot penetrate the thatch, remove the thatch now with a stiff rake or thatching rake.

Mow high. Continue to mow grass until it stops actively growing. For the final mowing of the season, cut cool-season grasses to 2½ inches and warm-season grasses between 1½ and 2 inches, which is just a little shorter than you should cut it during the spring and early autumn.

No fast food. Fertilize cool-season grasses in fall with a slow-release, organic fertilizer, such asFall Lawns Alive!® Application timing varies among regions, so check with your county extension office for local recommendations. Don't fertilize warm-season grasses in fall.

Reseed bare areas. Prevent weedy patches next spring by seeding now. Grass seed grows well in fall because the temperatures are perfect for cool-season grass and because it has less competition from annual weeds. Just be sure to give the lawn enough time to establish itself before winter weather hits. Plant and renovate warm-season grasses in the spring.

Article from Organic Gardening .com

Putting Your Garden to Bed for Winter

Putting Your Garden to Bed for Winter

With fall here and winter being not far behind, it will soon
be time to put your garden to bed for the winter.

Houseplants that have been luxuriating outdoors for the
summer need to be brought indoors when nighttime
temperatures drop below fifty degrees. Many houseplants
come from tropical regions and they won't appreciate cooler
temperatures. Before bringing them indoors, carefully
examine the leaves and the pots for any insects that may try
to hitch a ride inside your house. A couple of good douses of
insecticidal soap applied a few days before the plants are
brought inside will eliminate many pests before they can
infest your home.

Fall is a good time to plant perennials. Fall-planted
perennials should be thinly mulched after planting. More
mulch should be added after the ground has frozen to prevent
the newly established plants from heaving out of the ground
from repeated freezing and thawing. Mark where all of your
perennials are planted so you'll know where they are once the
foliage has died back at the end of the season.

Tender bulbs and tubers such as gladiola and begonias
should be dug up after the first light frost and stored over winter
in a cool, dark place that won't freeze.

Stop fertilizing your trees and flowering shrubs as fall
approaches. This will allow the new growth to harden off
before winter and will help prevent winter damage to your
plants.

Clean out all weeds, plant debris and unharvested vegetables
from the vegetable garden. Compost can be added to the
vegetable garden now, and you might consider planting a cover
crop of winter rye, oats or clover. Cover crops help keep
weeds down and prevent erosion in the garden. Come spring,
the cover crop is tilled in to enrich the soil.

Putting the garden to bed can be a sad event for gardeners,
but it also reminds us that another glorious season of
gardening will be here soon.


(personal stuff about Mike and Pam, more added all the time)
http://www.freeplants.com/stuff.htm

Have a great week!
-Mike McGroarty

P.S. The message board is here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/519353/






McGroarty Enterprises Inc.
P.O. Box 338
Perry, Ohio 44081

Mulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring Display

Mulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring Display

Flower bulbs need a good, long, winters sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested, they get kind of cranky, and then they don’t bloom well at all.

Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm, and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And that’s usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then don’t bloom at all, or if they do it’s a very sad display.

Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.

In the fall just apply a 3-4” layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good, as long as the soil isn’t too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer.

A 3-4” layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you don’t want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time.

When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again.

We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and it’s time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Anytime you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are “well composted”. Fresh material is not good.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most
interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his
excellent gardening newsletter, and grab a FREE copy of his
E-book, "Easy Plant Propagation".

Fall Rose Care

Fall Rose Care
Remember that roses require special care in the fall. In early fall, suspend fertilization. Continuing to fertilize causes new growth that could be killed by winter's cold. After foliage drops, spray with fungicide, then cover plants with a minimum of 8" of loose, well-drained soil, mulch or compost. Prune canes back to 36" to prevent damage from winter winds.

October Gardening To Do List

October Gardening To Do List




Zone 1
Finish planting container-grown trees and shrubs
Plant needle-bearing evergreens early in the month
If the month is dry, repeat the September soaking
Check ties on trees, and loosen any that look tight
Finish bulb planting early in the month
Cover compost to keep it warm and working
Observe trees for fall color; jot names of the best in your notebook
Dig dahlia roots after tops are frosted


Zone 2
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 3
Start fall compost pile
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Protect roses for winter


Zone 4
Start fall compost pile
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant, feed, and aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Protect roses for winter
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant balled-and-burlapped trees
Plant trees in containers
Plant frost-tolerant trees

Zone 5
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant cool- and warm-season lawns
Aerate cool-season lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Protect roses for winter
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees

Zone 6
Start fall compost pile
Plant winter- and spring-flowering bulbs
Divide and replant crowded fall-blooming bulbs after leaves yellow
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped fruit trees
Plant permanent ground covers
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant and aerate lawns and loosen thatch
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Divide and replant summer- and fall-blooming perennials after bloom
Plant container roses
Protect roses for winter
Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, shrubs, and vines
Plant summer-blooming shrubs and vines
Plant frost-tolerant trees
Plant needle-leafed evergreens


Zone 7
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Cover perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds for winter
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Pre-chill tulips and hyacinths for indoor forcing
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Rake lawn to remove debris
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant container roses
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container trees, shrubs, and vines
Prune fall-flowering shrubs just after bloom
Protect tender plants from frost
Zone 8
Plant for fall and winter color
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Plant balled-and-burlapped and container fruit trees
Prune frost-sensitive fruit trees
Cut back on feeding houseplants (do not feed dormant houseplants)
Plant or repair lawns
Plant ornamental grasses
Sow seeds for frost-tolerant perennials
Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-blooming shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 9
Plant for fall color with annuals
Buy winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti or succulents that are growing or blooming
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Repair or plant lawns
Rake lawns to remove debris
Sow frost-tolerant perennials indoors
Plant fall- and winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines just after bloom
Plant or transplant seedlings of cool-season or winter vegetables
Sow seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 10
Plant annuals for fall color
Set out fall and winter-blooming plants
Plant winter- and spring-blooming bulbs
Feed and water cacti and succulents that are growing or blooming
Feed houseplants that are growing or blooming
Plant winter-blooming perennials
Prune fall-flowering shrubs and vines after bloom
Sow cool-season vegetable seeds
Start seeds for cool-season or winter vegetables


Zone 11
Finish planting spring-blooming bulbs
Plant container-grown trees and shrubs
Feed and water lawn to encourage overseeded grass
Prune back summer- and fall-blooming shrubs
Allow rose hips to form; it will encourage early dormancy in bushes

article courtesy of http://www.backyardgardener.com/article/zoneoct01.html

WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS

WHERE TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUMS

This article is from the Beginners Handbook.
Purchase the complete handbook online.

When selecting a good location to grow chrysanthemums, a number of things should be considered.

SUNSHINE

The chrysanthemum does best in full sun. All of us do not always have a location where full sunshine can be provided. In most places, five to six hours will be sufficient to produce a healthy plant. When a choice exists between early morning sun and afternoon sun, select the morning sun. There, early drying will help to avoid mildew and other diseases. This effect is usually helpful to most plants.

DRAINAGE

Another condition to be considered in site selection is water drainage. Since chrysanthemums require good drainage, a low, level site in which rain collects should be avoided. When higher ground fails to drain well, all is not hopeless. The solution is to construct raised beds. Pressure treated wood, nominal 2 inch by eight inch is most satisfactory and readily available. After the bed is so outlined it should then be filled with suitable soil.

NIGHT LIGHTS

There are still other conditions which influence the selection of a location for chrysanthemum planting. One undesirable influence is the presence of a street or other light source at night. As will be explained later in more detail, light at night serves to delay the bloom date.

ROOT COMPETITION

When possible, beds should be located at a sufficient distance from larger plants to avoid extensive root competition. When root competition cannot be avoided, a barrier may be considered. Barriers may be open ditches or underground walls of metal, masonry, or lumber. Walls or barriers eight to twelve inches deep will usually prove to be sufficient.

AIR DRAINAGE

Finally, consideration should be given to a factor of which few people are aware. This factor is air drainage. Air flows in the same manner as water. Heavier cold air flows downhill while lighter warm air rises. Plants should be located away from walls or obstructions which would hinder air flow. Air movement helps to dry moist foliage and thus reduces development of mildew. Air flow also provides a cooling effect

NO YARD AT ALL

With limited yard or no yard at all, chrysanthemums can be grown successfully in containers. With containers, the soil can be formulated for good drainage and the containers can be moved to provide maximum sunlight and protection from the elements.

article reprinted from theNational Chrysanthemums Society